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Sick Dayz

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Posts posted by Sick Dayz

  1. Where you been brother?? MARS??? the politicians ARE NOT representing the people. name one issue today that the politicians are steering in the direction the people want....

    I can name a few that they dont

    trade deficit with china

    illegal immigration

    social services

    the UN being in the US

    etc etc

    I have voted in every election since i was 18...and I contact my representative on ALL levels...city county, state, fed.....and NONE of the give a sh*t about what the public wants, cause their pockets are lined by the special interest groups

    the people are the government.....maybe about 30 years ago...not today

    :coocoo:

    When I say we are the government, I mean, they are not a separate group that we should look towards for guidance. They are us. We have let them get out of control and we should not be putting more power in their hands.

    Do not look to them to control/change the market. Let the market find it’s own…

  2. It’s called supply and demand. If you don’t like it, find another way to power your vehicle. It sounds harsh, but that is the way it is in our country, and personally, I like it that way.

    You whinny b*tches that call for the government to get more involved, must have a screw loose. One of the reasons we’re in the position we’re in is because the government is too involved already.

    If you don’t like the prices, find another way to do it. That is a benefit of supply and demand. The high prices will allow for others to propose alternatives (because there is money in it now) It isn’t going to happen over night and there will be some pain in the process for some, but eventually we will get tired of paying the high prices and demand an alternative. Or the prices will come down, because the market won’t want to loose our business. True, America is not alone in this market, so we have the pressures of other countries, and as a result, it will take more pressure from our country before changes are made. When I say pressure, I don’t mean from the government, I mean from the PEOPLE. The people are the government, something we have clearly forgotten.

    If you’re whining, make a change in your life or shut-up. :D

  3. Shout out to 84gibb and his group for a perfect weekend. Thanks for inviting my family into your group. You are a great bunch of people and we had a awesome time. Its cool people like you guys that make this sport good family fun. :DDRrocks:

    Thanks again for being there to pull my car back to camp when my shifter acted up. :lol:

    I’ll let you know the next time we are heading out there and we can hook up again for some great riding. :grin:

    Shannon

  4. IMO, 15” – 18” of travel with properly set up suspension is all you need in the sand.

    However, there is a trend to jack the front end off the ground and go without any droop. Some think it looks “cool”, I thing it looks ridiculous. I guess if all you do is launch over large jumps, or sit at the hill, all is good with lifted cars… :duniemonkie:

  5. Nice looking car and you might be one of the lucky ones that got your car.. I was reading on dunebuggy.com that Justin might be going under soon. Alot of creditors are after him or something to that effect..

    That sucks he builds a great car.

    There is bad blood between them. I don’t personally know they guys at Dunebuggy.com, but I do know Justin and he is a straight up guy. Ask anyone that has one of his cars. Also ask other people with other cars, that he has helped out.

    There were some business dealings between the two that didn’t go well. Justin will be around for a long time and his cars are a work of art. One of the best suspension guys around…

    Always 2 sides... :D

  6. Holy :beercheers: from a back fire? That doesnt even seem right? That manifold must have had a hairline fracture?

    That car is going to NICE,, LOOKING GOOD!!!

    Yah, I thought it might have been damaged while I was pulling it out or putting it in. Who knows… :beercheers:

  7. DAYUM !!! you better get kings you dont have to wait 2 weeks for them however kartek has an entire wall of fox shox wrap that thin up for kick off. :banghead:

    I had to go and make mine special...

    I am getting 3 tube + 1 gold tube 2.5" for the fronts and 4 tube + 1 gold tube 3"for the rear. Justin at Revenge is placing the tubes where he has designed them for his car.

    Not sure if you're familiar with the gold tube, but it is a bleed tube, kind of like drilling a hole in the piston of the King shock. I like the idea of not having the bleed hole in the piston, that way you can utilize a very stiff shim stack for the bump stage and not loose anything out the small bleed hole.

    Guess I'll have to wait... :whoop:

  8. Sorry, I’ve been neglecting this thread.

    Here are a few pics of where I’m at.

    Engine is in and plumbed. Seats are in. Waiting on the axles, which should be here this week. Waiting on the shocks from FOX, which will not be here for another 2 weeks.

    post-836-1190856599_thumb.jpg

    post-836-1190856641_thumb.jpg

    post-836-1190856671_thumb.jpg

    A buddy of mine made this adaptor for me:

    post-836-1190856815_thumb.jpg

    After I put the engine in, I tried to turn it over and blow the back out of my intake manifold, on a back-fire. Waiting for a new one of those… Anyone ever have this happen?

    post-836-1190857333_thumb.jpg

  9. Well, I drove to Phoenix Friday, picked up the car Friday night at 9:00PM, slept and drove back Saturday. Did I mention it’s a 12 hour trip…

    Justin showed me around the shop. Boy those guys are busy. They do some awesome work. Justin needs to move into a bigger place and I know he’s trying to…

    Unloaded the car Sunday morning and started at it.

    To answer your question, I’ll be doing the instrumentation. I’m looking forward to it… :)

    Here is what it looked like when I unloaded it.

    post-836-1188876512_thumb.jpg

    post-836-1188876526_thumb.jpg

    post-836-1188876538_thumb.jpg

    Here is what it looked like after DAY 1

    post-836-1188876552_thumb.jpg

    post-836-1188876562_thumb.jpg

    And here is after DAY 2

    post-836-1188876577_thumb.jpg

  10. make sure you draw the needle in the 170 zone dont need to overheat.

    and make sure you draw the fuel gauge on full :laughing:

    your dash looks like mine copycater 2 half moons with a mount for the nav in the middle . lol

    but i drew my gauges all wrong i erased them so i can draw the needles in the right places :Danielle:

    Temp = 170... check

    Oil = 50... check

    Volts = 13... check

    Fuel = full... check

    Tach = 6000... check

    I think i got it, by the way, I’m going with black sharpie (can't go wrong with black)

    That dash is similar... Here is an updated pick of the dash...

    post-836-1188506241_thumb.jpg

  11. no silly your tractor is hydrostatic that lever on your left under the wheel is not a left blinker its fwd and reverse

    those pedals are a brake for each tractor wheel.

    I grew up driving one of these… I know what you’re talking about… :beercheers:

    post-836-1188399405_thumb.jpg

  12. no, sick days thought right .your forgetting about ladderal energy . if you take a low slung car such as the corvette nice low center of gravity look under it youll find a sway bar for the exact reasons described above :clap:

    ogp makes a good point and they aid it somewhat but the ladderal energy cannot be compensated with valving :beercheers:

    ill explain more a lil later back to "the sheild"..........................................

    anywase hypotheticaly your car weighs 2000 lbs lets say. the front carries 400lbs at each wheel. the rear carries 600 per wheel .when the car leans hard most of that weight is transfered to the two wheels on the side its leaning into. the otherside is lifting. the weight dosnt dissapear it transfers.

    your bypases are set and valved to handle the 600 and 400 so youve overloaded those shocks and valving.

    thats why it negates it. the sway bar actually transfers some of the weight back to the other side by not allowing it to lift and keeps it more planted. depending on the size or pressure the torsion bar is set for controls how much it will allow to transfer.

    a light or small torsion bar allows more indepedent movement at the cost of increased lean less weight transfer. while a large or stiffer torsion bar suffers independent movement such as a caddy corner cross over a razor.

    but transfers more weight or plants the other side thats lifting increasing your cornering ability.

    and a taller more top heavier car with longer shocks of course needs more than a lower slung car. but the difference is substantial. when adding a sway bar it can make the taller car handle as good as the lower slung car without one.

    my reason for asking about being undecided comes from the fact that theres not to many out there for buggies and if all they had was some cheap a$$ unit for hype i dont want one .so im asking making sure they are what they are supposed to be. which i can see is that they are making quality working swaybars :thumb:

    me personally im going for a mid sized bar to try to get a good balance.

    there is more to it than that but that is the basics.

    it is proven science not theory hope it helps :thumb:

    So, let me see if I understand this correctly… Your saying that I shouldn’t use more than 15 psi in the rear tires? :bawl:

  13. Hummm body lean, Whats that? lol If the shocks are storing up energy, Wouldnt dialing in the rebound damping help when the shock unloads? Alot of the long travel cars sit high up making the center of gravity alot higher creating the body lean. Some brands of cars, Are designing there cars lower to the ground so there is alot lower center of gravity. Also going with a flatter profile paddle tire helps the car slide instead of wanting to roll over. I think?

    It’s not so much that the shock is storing energy and needs to release it slower (rebound valuing). You can’t adjust body roll with rebound valuing.

    What’s happening is that the shock is doing its job. It is supposed to compress under load. Like when you jumping or go over woops. The problem in a turn is that the outer shock compresses (because the entire load is on that corner), and the inside shock extends because the load is shifted to the outer shock, causing body roll.

    If you add a torsion bar connecting both training arms together, when one side compresses, the torsion bar puts a load on the other side causing the whole car to lower and not lean near as much.

    If you really want to get rid of roll, put a torsion bar in the front, as well… :D

    In most cases you won’t even notice the torsion bar while dunning, because when the left side hits a bump the right side does as well, so they want to compress together anyway. The only time you will notice is when the right and left wheels hit bumps at different times, like going sideways over woops or crossing a razor. Remember, the torsion bar is a specific diameter rod of steel and can be changed-out to find just the right amount of torsion.

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