JasonR

i wonder if the other car that hit him, was the guy that was camping with me...him and another one of our other cars in our group went out for a ride and returned in a very short time. he said he got into an accident with another car, his right front tire was off of the rim and the front control arms/and steering linkage was pretty mangled. he also had a stress crack/break in the front part of the frame.

do you know what color the car was that hit Insanity.

sorry that happened to him.

Jason

did this happen thanksgiving weekend??

i think you should replace it....but rebuilding it would be cheaper..but sometimes rebuilding aluminum slave,masters,calipers, or wheel cyl can have its problems. your supposed to hone out the cyl and by doing that on a aluminum one is not recommended

just my

Jason,

ASE master tech. \

oh ya one more thing...all these channels are on the VHF band...ranging from 136.000 to 174.000 Mhz. that is what all those freq. are being transmitted on...UHF is what you would hear on NASCAR up in the 400Mhz.

"VHF for outdoor

use and UHF for Indoor use. VHF goes further so it works better

outdoors, while UHF is better for indoors because it's better at

penetrating buildings made of wood, concrete and/or steel."

http://www.two-wayradio.com/UHFvsVHF.html

heres the freq. for all four banks..

Bank 1 Freq. PCI RADIO PROGRAMMING

Channel Atr RX/TX Text

1-1 151-625000 WXMAN

1-2 151-715000 BFGRLY

1-3 154-980000 BJPITS

1-4 151-685000 NETWRK

1-5 151-925000 CHKRS

1-6 150-860000 FAIR

1-7 A 153-110000 YOKO

1-8 152-960000 CAMPNS

1-9 151-505000 CHCKR2

1-10 153.395000 BFGPT

1-11 153.380000 MAG7

1-12 B 155.160000 RESCUE

1-13 153.245000 CORE

1-14 151.775000 LCMOC

1-15 151.490000 BITD

1-16 154.515000 PCIRL

Bank 2 Freq. PCI RADIO PROGRAMMING

Channel Atr RX/TX Text

2-1 153.140000 AGAVE

2-2 153.620000 BECKER

2-3 153.185000 BECKER2

2-4 153.245000 DICKER1

2-5 151.580000 DICKER2

2-6 151.535000 EJR1

2-7 151.130000 EJR2

2-8 152.255000 GHANSEN

2-9 151.760000 HERZOG

2-10 151.670000 HOGMAN

2-11 151.175000 HUNT1

2-12 153.425000 HUNT2

2-13 153.680000 KOCH

2-14 153.350000 LICITRA

2-15 153.095000 LICITRA2

2-16 152.975000 MANGO1

2-17 157.500000 MANGO2

2-18 157.545000 MCGILVRY

2-19 151.580000 RJR1

2-20 153.230000 RJR2

2-21 150.950000 SMD1

2-22 151.130000 SMD2

2-23 151.855000 SMD3

2-24 152.165000 SMPUP

2-25 157.560000 SHEPARD

2-26 152.045000 SHEPARD2

2-27 151.370000 STARTS

2-28 151.250000 STARTS2

2-29 151.970000 TATUM

2-30 151.010000 C&C

2-31 151.415000 DUKES1

2-32 152.180000 DUKES2

2-33 152.285000 S&G1

2-34 153.185000 S&G2

2-35 153.245000 VOSS1

2-36 152.720000 VOSS2

2-37 152.870000 PROTRUCK

Bank3 Freq. PCI RADIO PROGRAMMING

Channel Atr RX/TX Text

3-1 153.725000 BALDWIN

3-2 151.790000 COLLINS

3-3 153.365000 ENDURO

3-4 152.585000 GREER1

3-5 154.490000 GREER2

3-6 151.000000 GORDON1

3-7 151.520000 GORDON2

3-8 157.650000 HERBST1

3-9 157.695000 HERBST2

3-10 152.990000 HERDER

3-11 152.425000 JEFFRIES

3-12 152.105000 JONES

3-13 152.585000 RAGLAND1

3-14 152.615000 RAGLAND2

3-15 157.815000 RAGLAND3

3-16 157.845000 RAGLAND4

3-17 156.255000 RIVIERA1

3-18 153.515000 RIVIERA2

3-19 152.075000 ROBERTS1

3-20 151.135000 ROBERTS2

3-21 154.615000 SESSA

3-22 153.635000 SKILTON

3-23 154.585000 SOURAPAS

3-24 152.315000 SOURAP2

3-25 153.035000 STEINBER

3-26 151.535000 TAYLOR1

3-27 152.330000 TAYLOR2

3-28 150.935000 VILDOSOL

3-29 153.455000 VOSBURG

Bank 4 Freq. PCI RADIO PROGRAMMING

Channel Atr RX/TX Text

4-1 153.020000 QUINN

4-2 152.900000 WILSON1

4-3 152.450000 WILSON2

4-4 152.855000 WILSON3

4-5 151.640000 JULSON

4-6 151.025000 MARKING

4-7 153.440000 WEYRICH

4-8 153.155000 FORTIN

i know there is a place in victorville off of the 15 fwy that rents them...they are located between Bear Valley Rd and palmdale rd/18 if you are coming from "down the hill" then they would be on your left side...you can't miss them.

i think they are located right here or the next building to this one ...just copy and paste in googlearth

34.4942997665, -117.330467212

b*tch and complain about POTENTIAL CUSTOMERS and see what that does for your business. GOOD IDEA!!!!!!!

thats all i herd from his statement...lol :angry2:

i had my motor break a head bolt...only one...he had it..but wouldn't sell me just one.. he wanted to sell me all 16 for the low price of 139.00 and a head gasket for 70.00...

well...the vendor next door...he hooked me up really good...

1.00 for the head bolt and 3.00 for the head gasket..he got me going again...thanks to for the guy next door.

saved my weekend.

for the other guy

WOW...i had a great weekend..started off a little rough...blew a head gasket and broke a head bolt on my 2332 VW.. Doghouse wanted $139.00 for the head bolts and 70.00 for the head gasket (fire ring) but the vendor right next door sold me the head bolt for 1.00 and the head gasket for 3.00 ...he's my new best friend. i pulled apart my heads and cyl. did the repair in 4 1/2 hours.. and was back in the sand

the ppl at the meet and greet were great...i was the goofy one dressed as the pirate in the blue SR.

Halloween night at comp...DAMN lot of ppl...loved it

i hope to meet more of you guys on the poker run... or poss. on turkey day..

Jason

Hey Jason im from AV to. When i used to buy high octane i bought it from Beck oil on D st, they have all diff octanes for what you need or want, it was about 6 bucks, its called trick race fuel. We should meet up out there for holloween :trickortreat: .

Dan

Ill be there... i usually camp in front of restroom 3... 35 41.077n, 116 14.576w there is usually about 4-6 MH with us..im the one with the older one and blue SR...stop by..we'll have a beer . im gonna be at the meet N greet on sat at 2... let me know

Jason

I just called Rasor Road Service. It is the Beacon station on Rasor Road. They have 110 at the pump for $7.58 a gallon. Their number is 800-828-5473.

thanks for the info guys...see ya on Halloween...2 pm S. pole.. ill be in the little blue rail

Anyone here know where to purchase 110 fuel at a good price???

I live in apple valley..30 miles south of barstow

also..anyone know about running "NAVGAS" (airplane fuel) in their cars...i was told that you can run aviation fuel in it and its cheaper..is this a true...let me know...thanks

Jason

i looked at the ford forums and other poeple say that the steering box could have come lose and could cause this problem and other poeple say it is the pit-man arm so what could it be????

the original problem is that your pulling to the right...IF it was the pitman or gear box..you would have a problem with wearing tires(pitman arm) and a "funny feeling" while you steer...(looseness)....possibly even a shake...if you want to check the pitman and gear box..thats only if you have one,(some have rack and pinion) raise up the front tires and let the suspension hang...grab the tire at the 3 and 9 o clock position and shake left to right...you'll feel if there's any play...do this to both sides... if there is play..just look at the linkage you'll be able to spot it. if you have a rack and pinion.. look for the play..if its in the rack..then you need a inner tie rod socket..(again you stated no tire wear) I dont think this is your prob...your alignment specs points to, to much caster on the right side..it needs to come more negative(closer to 4 degree)

but like you stated before... you dont have any tire wear...just a pull to the right..your problem is in your alignment...

...Jason

Girls Girls, you are both pretty!!!

:beer_bang:

so you were just quoting from a book hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

no i found that source last night...

i think you have little man complex...dont get your feeling hurt..

you might wanna know a little more about someone before you go and put them down about the advise they give...

funny...what i have been saying this whole time was right ...then i prove it...then all you have to say is "

so you were just quoting from a book hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha"...sounds like you might need to go back to school...i hold classes from time to time...ill front you the tuition. no charge...just beer

then you should know what you are saying is total crap and shouldn't need a textbook????maybe shop manual?????

i guess you are right.

but maybe you should try aligning a car sometime,you will find out that .5 caster split is not the magic #

especially on a ford,much less a truck

you should check out wyotech or uti

i think you need to learn to read...i said that ..."anything over .5 pull whether it be positive (right) or negative (left)...just positive will be more noticeable because of road crown."...NOT that .5 is the magic number...but if you knew better...you would know that on a bigger vehicle...you wont notice a .5 spread then if on a smaller vehicle. that's why the specs give you such a large range...these specs wouldn't work on a smaller ford or any other small passenger car...bigger vehicles gives more "range for error" a vehicle can be in spec (across the board) and still pull...if the spread "rule of thumb" is more then .5 Positive or negative. if you look up ANY spec on ANY vehicle...you will find that left caster is always less then the right..its done this way to compensate for road crown..Most vehicles produced today do not have adjustable

caster angle. Many early model vehicles have

adjustable caster in which road crown is compensated

for (along with camber). By setting the caster angle on

the driver’s side 1/2 degree less than the passenger side

for positive caster specifications or 1/2 degree more for

negative caster specifications, the road crown should

not cause vehicle pull in either direction.

source

http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPCAl...undamentals.pdf

check it out for yourself :beer_bang:

oh yea....look out....

just tell me when and were and me and mine will show with nothing but good times beer :beer_bang: and we all can get a little :drunk2: tell stories :drunks: and do a little

All of you are welcome to come eat my cooking . Im feeling pressure now. I better get to baking some mean a$$ cupcakes damnit...lol this site needs a chef smilie I would use it right now and there is nothing wrong with my jello shotts... They are just a little ummm strong...... :beer_bang:

would you be willing to share some or your strong @zz jello shots...would like to try one...

actually 4.1 0n the right will still go right.....WRONG AGAIN

you need the 3.6 to be about 5.0 ....with 4.5 on left

and no such thing as a 3.2 or 3.7 degree cam. are you trying to quote a book or pamphlet????????? AND AGAIN

also it is not the split that is the problem is is the direction of the split ........... AND AGAIN

you should reread my post you might learn something.

First off im NOT trying to get paid...and second off...like i said before...text book sais that the spread should be more Negative (left) to compensate for road crown...you want a car to slightly pull to the left for that reason BUT on a full size truck you can have a Positive spread and it wont make a difference you wont feel it like as if it was on a smaller car. and as far and the 3.2 to 3.7 degree ...i was referring to and increase of .5 degree bushing... to get it closer to 4 that is the idea number if you look at the specs he provided 5 is in the middle...so he needs to add .5 degree to whatever bushing is already installed on his truck. and IT IS the split the is the problem. a .9 degree positive pulls right...and .-9 degree pulls left....anything over .5 pull whether it be positive (right) or negative (left)...just positive will be more noticeable because of road crown...I am giving him the right advise .....after all i am a master tech of 15 years and worked on thousands of cars...not just FORD

:beer_bang:

are thare any good alignmnet shops that would change the casters and would align the truck in or near los angeles california

sorry i cant help you with that one..i live in apple valley...but i can tell you that you need .5 degree bushing on either side...preferably on the right...now im not sure what bushing if any you have already but what ever it is ad .5 degree to it and tell the tech to make the appropriate adjustments. IE(if you already have a 3.2 degree...you want to put in a 3.7) you want the 3.6 to be closer to 4.1... that would make the caster spread. +.4 and that would make your car drive straight.

BEER ME....LOL :beer_bang:

sorry i am a ford master tech it stomps your ase lol

the caster is the problem 4.5 on left and 3.6 on right will pull right

have them put about 4.0 on left and 4.5 - 4.7 on right and it will go straight

and also no charge for my tech knowledge LOL

LOL...you beat me ....but i agree.. your cross caster is to high... . caster will pull to the most Negative, thus your right side is quit a bit lower then the left..(.9) it will pull to the right. ask them why they didn't offer you caster/camber bushing to correct the problem...you want less then .5 degree spread from left to right...and text book alignment should be negative .5 degree to slightly pull to the left so that the car will compensate for road crown.

my charge for tech advise is a cold beer lol

i have an 01 ford f250 am i am having some alignment problems when when i drive the truck it does not go straigth and it all way's want to got to the rigth. so the next day i took it to the alignment shop and they told m that the trucks alignment was good and it did not needed adjustments and they could not find out what is the prodlem so what could it be???

i am an ASE cert. master tech....i have a couple of questions...have you rotated your tires from left to right...to see if it pulls the other direction...if so...then the problem is in your tires. 2nd...what suspension do you have..."twin I beam" , solid, SLA (dual control arms) ..3rd... did you get a printout of the alignment check...i would like to know the numbers... and does the tires wear funny>.IE...feather,cupping, side cupping, feather inside and out or front to back, inside or outside wear, and tire pressure...let me know...i can probably figure out your problem

you can call me if you like...i do this (phone diagnosing all the time)

760-792-2966 Jason

All I hear is that sand gets in the idle circuit on Weber carbs when used in the dunes! It has happened to me 3 times in one season. Where do the sand grains come from that get into the idle jets? I have an in line filter and the screens in the carb intakes. I have the air filters sealed with high temp grease to eliminate the chance of it happening again. Who knows why this is such an issue and how to make sure it doesn't happen again. There has to be a reason for it and a solution. The sand monster has it in for Weber!!

I wish I could see a "map" of the inside of a Weber down draft to see where the gas comes and go inside the carbs! That would show me where the possibilities are for the "Sand Intrusion" nightmare!

I had the same prob with my d/44's...i found out if you run PAPER filter before the fuel pump and paper filters right before each carb..this eliminated my problem with the dirt in the idle circuit. but use paper filters they seem to take out the extra fine dirt better then those glass "bling bling:" ones. i also use a pre-air filter with my K&N and use a slight amount of air filter spray oil on them the k&n to also help with the fine dirt. hope this helps

ok here is the law...first off you have to have doubles endorsement to pull doubles. if you have a fifth wheel and your pulling a trailer behind it...the trailer hitch can be a ball type hitch as long as its welded and permanently installed. total length can be 60 feet in this configuration. you can pull with two ball hitch's as long as the first one is welded and length can not be longer then 50ft.

highly recommended the the vehicle is a 3/4 to 1 ton or more to pull this configuration, because the axle and chassis is designed for the extra weight... try to put more weight as far forward as possible to help with the "fish tailing affect' use anti sway bars and stabilizers and keep your speed down. never over correct or you will flip the rear trailer over speeds of 15mph

ok here is the law...first off you have to have doubles endorsement to pull doubles. if you have a fifth wheel and your pulling a trailer behind it...the trailer hitch can be a ball type hitch as long as its welded and permanently installed. total length can be 60 feet in this configuration. you can pull with two ball hitch's as long as the first one is welded and length can not be longer then 50ft.

highly recommended the the vehicle is a 3/4 to 1 ton or more to pull this configuration, because the axle and chassis is designed for the extra weight... try to put more weight as far forward as possible to help with the "fish tailing affect' use anti sway bars and stabilizers and keep your speed down. never over correct or you will flip the rear trailer over speeds of 15mph

need a tech2 equivilant for a jeep cherokee. Need to find out what codes are being thrown and ask a few questions.

im a ASE certified auto tech....you can call me and i might be able to help..

760-792-2966

Jason