Jump to content

Welcome to DDR!

We are your Dumont Dunes community & information source!

New here? Join the community! (You must sign in to post.)

Returning users: Sign In with your display name or email address.

Troubles signing in? Please contact us. Forgot your password? Reset it here.


Sign In

Ron Watson

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Ron Watson

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/21/1953

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Sand Toys
    92 Chenowth mid-travel 4-seater, 2332ci VW
  • Location
    Azusa, CA
  • Gender
  • Occupation
  • Hobbies
    Dirt Bikes

Recent Profile Visitors

403 profile views
  1. Not sure how many are using a GPS in their cars, but wondering what type is best (opinion's appreciated)? Looking for something to keep me from getting lost. Thanks for any help.
  2. I sometimes get annoyed when a thread thoroughly describes a problem and then ends without a solution. So here's my solution to the "mis-fire / dead cylinder" issue I was having (after replacing the ignition system), I finally solved the problem. After I got it running again, I still had issues with the fuel screws not having any effect. All the way in or all the way out made no difference in idle speed and of course ran like s&#t. I decided to take the carbs off for another cleaning. Starting with the driver side I couldn't see any thing anything dirty, but I put it in the dip. As I was stripping the carb I took the pilot jets out. I noticed when I unscrewed the holder, the pilot jet remained in the body. I remember when I put the jets in the carb, they did not fit snugly in the holder, but I assumed the jet was trapped and being loose wouldn't matter. Just more convenient when you take them out. Last night I was looking a Weber manual and noticed a drawing that showed the pilot jet and it caught m eye that the jet was suspended in the holder. Then it dawned on me that might be my problem. Sure enough, when I put the driver side carb back together I spread the jet end to make it fit tightly in the holder. Then I took just the pilot jets out of the pass side carb (didn't pull the carb for cleaning again) and tightened the fit on those pilot jets. When I put it all back together and fired it up. At first I worried I hadn't found the problem. When I started adjusting the fuel screws and sync'ing the carbs, the idle started smoothing out and it would rev like a 2-stroke. No flat spots and no hesitation. It still made a puff of black smoke each time I rev'ed it, so I started backing off the accelerator pumps, until the black smoke went away. Bottom line, my fuel screws would work and then go stop working, for what seemed like no reason. When the problem was the pilot jets did not fit tightly in their holders. I don't know whether to pat myself on the back or kick myself in the butt. They sell spacers that insulate the carburator from heat sinking from the head after shutoff. My friend uses them now and hasn't plugged a jet in 2 years I think I'll add these for cheap insurance. Thanks to everyone for their knowledge and help. Hope this helps someone.
  3. Just a follow-up. After trying to chase down the problem, it seemed to keep getting worse. The spark kept getting weaker. I finally decided to just replace the whole ignition system. I installed a Pertronix ll ignitor with the matching Ignitor ll coil, along with a new Bosch cap and rotor and all new plug wires. Spark is now strong on all cylinders, however #3 still did not respond to the fuel screw. I pulled the carb and soaked in the carb dip again. Now that I have the carb back on the motor, #3 is responding properly to the fuel screw. Except now the problem has moved over to #4. I"m certain now the trouble was in the carb originally, but I had a failing ignition system making things more confusing. I have a fuel filter inline, so I'm not quite sure how I'm getting debris in the carb, but I'll keep cleaning it till it works.
  4. Thanks for all the suggestions and input. I had been swapping idle jets, thinking that was the problem, so I'm sure they're clear. It's getting a weak spark on #3 and that's the dead cylinder. I can not get the carb to respond to the fuel screw, but I do see the accelerator pump squirt. I don't have any spare "known good" parts, so I bought a (same as I have) 009 ignition kit with a new coil and plug wires. Should be here in the next day or two. It looks pretty clean around the base of the intakes, but I will check for leaks. I did the carbs when I initially got the car, so I think there clean, but that will be next, if the new ignition doesn't fix things. BTW, I have a snail type sinc tool for balancing the carbs. As lousy as it runs, it's got some pretty serious horsepower (VW 2332cc with dual 44 webers). But I'm not going through a lot of money at it though. I'm hoping to do a V6 Honda swap, after I finish some honey do's.
  5. I have already installed new plugs and wires, cap and rotor look new. Does anyone know if a CDI ignition can fail on one cylinder? I always thought you either get spark or you don't, but that's been my experience on single cylinder 2 stroke motorcycles.
  6. When I bought this car it mis-fired, idled rough, popped and back fired. I knew it needed some tuning, but it sounded good otherwise. It has never run properly and I can't seem to sort it out. Engine is a 2332cc. I started with rebuilding the carbs (dual weber 44 IDF's). It ran better, but still popping and back firing at low speed. Tired different pilot jets (currently has 60's) fuel screws are at about 2 turns out. However, #3 cylinder does not respond to the fuel screw. I can turn it all the way in or take it out, with no response. Also, if I pull the plug wire off #3, there is no change in the idle, like a dead cylinder. When I rev the engine running I can see fuel in the #3 carb barrel, but when I pull the #3 wire at the cap, the spark is very weak. (CDI ignition, not sure of what kind). I have not checked the valves yet or done a compression check. Thanks for any help.
  7. I'm hoping some of you experience folks will respond here too! I'm planning my first trip to Dumont Dunes some time early next year and could use some tips as well. The only times I've ever been in sand was on a motorcycle and I usually tried to avoid it, whenever I could.
  8. I currently have 2332cc Vdub in a mid travel Chenowth 4-seater that seems difficult (for me) to keep tuned. I have been thinking about going with an aluminum V6. I have an 091 bus trans and understand I'll need an adapter. Not really looking for max power, max reliability and a reasonable budget are more important. What should I look for? Thanks for any suggestions.
  9. Actually not yet, but I've been doing other things (installing electric power steering). I will definitely post when the trans is fixed. Thanks for asking.
  10. Just got a universal 400W power steering kit for my Chenowth sand rail. SuperATV recommended I go with the 400W unit versus the 220W, because of my larger tires and extra weight, compared to a side by side. I have a Saco rack and pinion, but my steering is still a little heavy and can make my shoulders sore. I hope to have it all installed next week. Can't wait to see how it works. Anybody have any thoughts or things to watch out for?
  11. Last weekend I had my car out for the first time. After an hour or so of blast around in the desert, my car started making a clicking sound only in 1st gear and only when the clutch is out. When I push in the clutch, the noise seems to goes away. I know it "doesn't" do it in 2nd gear, but I shut it down right away when I heard the noise and didn't get into 3rd or 4th. Could it be something to do with the throw-out bearing or is it something wrong deeper in the trans? My clutch actuation is hydraulic and the pedal feels normal. BTW, I have an 091 bus trans with a 2332cc VW. Thanks for any help.
  12. I'm pretty sure this is a long shot, but I would like to find a Chenowth Monogram Front Bumper. Anybody know where to find one?
  13. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
  14. My car does not have front brakes however the front wheels are mounted to stock drums. My question is, can I chuck the drums up in a lathe and cut the outer drum off? Will I have enough strength to safely keep front wheels on? You can kind of see the current set up in this picture Thanks for any input, Ron
  • Create New...