RUn2it

oh yeah, before I forget, some inverters don't have a fan and some the fan runs all the time, but Little Red Dune Riding Hood likes the inverters that temp control the fan to run when getting hot just right.

How often do you have to run the generator to charge the batteries. Also is there a setting to make the generator charge more than one at a time quicker. When I added one to my hauler it seems to take longer to charge both. Having 6-8 batteries this seems like it will take a while??

Haven't started my generator in probably a year, when I do, I have an Automotive charger 200Amp boost/ 40Amp continuous +2 more 10Amp chargers and the builtin charger/converter. I'll run the big charger at 200Amps for as long as I can with the other chargers too, sometimes 3-4 min @200 then at 40 for 5-10min then back to 200. Since I started tilting the solar panels up in fall/winter/spring and added 4 batteries to the 4 I had I pretty much have enough, unless I blast the stereo, 3- 4ch 400w amps bridged,3- 1fared caps, 6-12"subs etc, uses as much as the micro. Have a catalytic heater so no battery drain from wasteful furnace blower. I read that the most efficient furnace is only 60% efficient for the amount of propane used, not to mention OEM 1-2 battery setup croaks about 4AM. Some of the bigger pushers have a jumper for the charger/converter that bumps the 10Amp rate to 40Amps. A friends 38 Dutch Star was always low volts so I read his docs and discovered the dual rate. The reason the OEM chargers are such wimps, besides the cost cutting manf, is if the chargers were bigger with a switch is the usual elect/mech challenged user stays in parks plugged in and arriving with 12.8V batteries would overcharge them, a 40Amp charge will get to 15Volts + and fully charged batteries should only have a "float" charge of 13.6-13.8Volts. As a side note a battery at 12.25 volts is 50% discharged, everytime you take them lower you shorten the overall lifespan, better to charge twice as often for half the time. I'm sure there's more ?, I didn't learn this in an afternoon

The 2 piece strut sounds like the way to go. Adjustable highths would work real well. I was thinking about the staggered tire size like the sprint cars do, but I see your point about the skidding. I would have to go to the lake bed and try it out maybe, just to try it and see. The turning left thing is what it's all about though.

Yes but turning left while the bars are turning right is speedway. If you're talking about 18/20" tires 1 rev of the 18" is about 56" travel where a 20" is about 62", that's a big diff compared to staggered air pressure that reall just makes it easier to steer. If my rear quad tires are at 5 and 5.5 lbs and ride a wheelie up comp I'm turning, just a half lb of air pressure diff.

I'm running a 1750 W Xantrex, had it for at least 6 years. I needed one that would run a big micro while the Dish and big TV were on, I think when they are regular brand name and up in the watts the rating is for continuous but have a higher surge rating. It has thermal overload and Hi/Lo voltage protection. The only time it ever trips is using the elect for hot water 1500W and space out and use the micro 1500W. 4- 2' x 4' Solar panels, Solar Boost controller, if you're serious I can tell you what's up with the controllers, 8- 6V golf cart batteries. Anything specific just ask cause I'm into it :clown:

As far as the riding goes, I've got that covered. I've been sideways enough on the lakebed to have it down pretty good. 5th gear drifting is awsome.

As far as tires, I will be using my stock tires which are 18" and have been worn down to the point that they are almost slicks.They are perfect for speedway. I have even been thinking about maybe a staggered setup with a 18" on the left and 20" on the right. Gearing would be a trial and error process.

Right now, I do not want to do anything to my stock shocks. My main idea is to fab up some rigid cro-mo struts to make the whole thing rigid. Possibly staggering the front to leave the right front a lil higher, maybe an inch or so. I would have to work with that. The cool thing about this idea is I can lower the whole quad with out using an actuall lowering kit. And I can just swap out the struts and shocks when I change riding.

I have been going to Speedway for 5 years and have put alot of thought into riding my quad there, just because it would be a blast.

Hey RUn2it, The guy in the red is Shawn "Maddog" McConnel, He rides at Industry every wed and just got a track setup at the Orange Show in San Berdoo on Friday nights. Your pics look like Victorville.

Victorville it is. Tony was the long track champion back when speedway was cooking, he got a ride to do the Europe tour and speedway kinda poofed. On your strut setup, what about a 2 piece tubing strut, 1 slides into the other with multiple holes. Don't know if the staggered tire size would be the hot setup,20/18 is over 6" diff in circumference, you'ld be spinning the bigger or skidding the smaller on the straight, besides wanting to turn left bad. Stagger air pressure if anything, stock car style.

That would have to be a nevermind, you'd have to know the source of that information.

It can only be blue extention cordS

Blue extension cords FROM the inverter is OK

Just follow the Jawa lead, very little travel front & 0 rear. You don't want to crank the shocks all the way stiff as your ride height will be way too high and your front suspension gets narrower when topped out. I'd find some short shocks for the front with stiff springs so you have a couple inches travel to keep the steering hooked up and run short solid struts (length set to keep frame level with the short front shocks installed) on the rear to keep the chassis level (minimum body roll) and a low center of gravity. Don't think knobbies are the hot setup, they'ld hookup and lift the front wheels and it's either the wall or chop throttle, I'm guessing, you'll need some type of street tire that has shallow tread depth and narrow siping with a low flat profile, the lower the better, less sidewall flex and roll under, and spun alum wheels are lighter than tires. You'll have to experiment with gears, you don't want to hit the rev limiter with steering full locked and totally sideways, just below limiter at the end of straight, back off with a little rear brake maybe, squat on the left peg, your right knee at the seat/tank and hook your lower leg over the right side, nail it, wave your arm and cowboy hat in the air and shout YEEHAAAAH. Some nerfs with aluminum diamondplate might be cool to be able to adjust body english, to far forward and you'll hook and spin backwards into the infield (if you're lucky) too far back and you'll spin/back into the outer wall (if you're lucky). A quad might be like a 1 person kinda top heavy speedway sidehack. Speedway is a blast. My riding bud (pic) hadn't been on a Jawa in 15 years, got a call an hour before the race, grabbed some MX gear and won the main, lol, at 43.

1 of the heats this dude hooks up and wheelies right at Tony, Tony sees the guys shadow so he just ducks and gasses it.

sorry for the long post and partial hijack, as usual, I'm into it :clown:

Last year it was fuel prices that kept people from spending more time at the dunes. I think the dunes were quieter than usual in my opinion. So I am just curious if you think it will be even slower this year with the economy in the crapper. Seams like it getts harder and harder every year to go and have fun.

Hope everybody has a safe and great dune season this year.

It's easier to deal with the Dam Economy as long as you don't forget the Dam Beer, right ISBB?

#1 I thought the road was good. Truck and hauler ran smooth. #2 there is a blm thread for the rants. Obey rules and u do not have to worry about flashing lights!!!!!!!!!

I kinda like flashing lights, especially when they gradually disappear behind me.

Nice list, but if I had to load all of that in and out each trip ....so our tip is to leave as much as possible in the hauler. We are working on having a full set of 'hauler' items that we never have to take out.

We leave cooking/eating utensils, bedding (2sets), towels(2sets), hygiene items, pet items, some cold weather gear/clothing, all riding gear, canned food/spices (non perishables), tools, extra fluids/parts for the rides, chairs, bbq, air compressor, etc....

We only have to load food and a few misc items in and out each trip. 1 thing we tend to forget is the shovel, so that is added to the list of things to buy specifically to leave in the hauler.

There you go ..... leave everything in your hauler, if you need it at home, there's the hauler, if you need it at the dunes, there's the hauler. Unless you are in a CC&R restricted tract or small lot

that brings a whole new light to these pictures

Reminds me of a guy from Wyoming, he said he was from where the men are men and the sheep were fleetfooted..... NAAAAAHHHH! :clown:

Charlie just reminded me; the best way so save electricity and ware and tear on your generator is to use short blue extention cords then the power doesn't have to travel so far.

That's also why you put your inverter (12V to 120V) as close as possible to your batteries, less than 5' and you still need big cable like jumper cable minimum. A length of conductor will have a certain voltage drop, 1-2 volt drop from 120V is nothing but from 12V is a problem.

Costco at one time had LED rope lights, got one and strung it around the ceiling edge, fit perfect from the MH door around the front and all the way down the left side, and uses less juice than the 1 18" flourescent over the sink. Costco never restocked . put a LED 12V tail light bulb in 1 of the bathroom fixtures, like desertskyz said plenty of light, especially middle of the night when a reg light will leave you blind when shut off.

thats quite a bit more than the nipples bud.. you forget that the tire expands at rev's

I 2nd ISBB, I have taken pics of quads at speed and even the flat track tires get round.

Like Jody said, don't heat unused space, I installed an accordian door to the bedroom and that cut the space by a 3rd to heat, if you use something air doesn't pass through, even better. Lots of things you can do, depends on how much you use your rig to justify cost. I virtually live in my motorhome so $2000 solar setup & 8 6V batteries = no generator using the microwave, sat dish & 32LCD, computer etc unless it's really cloudy or I blast stereo (6-12" subs)for awhile . A 6000 btu Olympian catalytic heater uses no elect so your batteries don't die at 4am and propane lasts many trips intead of 2 trips, costs $300 but has saved me lots of propane. My brother said my "cover windows with reflectix" (2 sided aluminized plastic air pocket insulation, Home Depot etc) cut his heating costs by half in his WW. The "E ultra-platinum" window tint helps also. LED lights are the best elect savers, flourescents are better than regular 12v bulbs that are elect hogs. Stop drafts, sand piles and all the super fine dust inside during high winds with white or black elect tape over the drain slots in your windows, motorhomers turn front heater/vent controls to off. The expanding foam stuff works great to insulate and to fill around whatever leaks, I have a swamp cooler that revealed lots of leaky spots, cool air coming out all kinds of places. 6v golf cart batts are the least expensive batt for living area (pairs connected in series) and discharging lower than 12.25 volts (50% of rated cap, any battery) shortens it's life, better to charge twice as often for half the time. A inexpensive voltmeter (Harbor Freight $3) where you can see it. If you have more than the usual 2 12 volts get a real charger, 40-50 amp continuous so your generator doesn't run hours for the 10amp built in charger (usually). That should do it for now

Don't know your gen model but a couple goofy things that I encountered on my prior moho gas generator was a steel braided fuel line hid the cracks that sucked air but didn't leak fuel and the intake manifold was 2 halves pinned together with a gasket, the pins loosened from vibration, some small screws with lock nuts fixed it, but not your problem. If you've tried all the fuel related work arounds maybe your ign coil is weak, popping at startup or when a high amp load is applied is when a marginal coil or module would break down. Do you see any diff between cool gen and heat soaked when load is applied? It would be nice if someone .. with the same gen would swap elect stuff to test.

Just a FYI for you 50D owners, Canon has a new firmware update ready for download at their website, > http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/firm-e/eos50d/firmware.html

bitd is going to be the most expensive. individual races are about $400 per race. your first worcs and mx events will be more costly than subsequent races because you must purchase a transponder and usually an annual series membership. the first race will run you around $150 with subsequent races being $50-$75 per class entry.

I 2nd high octane junkie on the bitd, not only the entry fee but the logistics having people at all the pit stops and this year the Vegas to Reno is 3 stages (3 days), day 1-332 mi, 2-372 mi, 3-298 mi. The longest offroad race in the US, follows the old pony express trail. Last year Jerry (Whelchel, #1 TTruck BITD) would get to the pits before me when I was trying to get pit crew pitstop pics, and I was doing 75 on the hiways, and he complained the truck wouldn't go faster than 126 and that race had all classes on it, would you want to have a 5000+ lb monster overtake you on the course? If so you're Racing MX will make you faster sooner, just my opinion.

I am working on a trade for a 2002 GMC 2500 4x4 with auto and 6.0L motor, 230,000 miles. I drove it today and it ran good, no smoke, tranny shifted ok, 4x4 worked, ran down the hwy at 80 mph ok.

Now the questions: when I go from park into drive it takes a slow count to 4 or 5 before it does anything, put it in reverse and it goes right in.

A/c is cold but no air volume coming out of vents.

When I got off the freeway and onto surface streets when I let off the gas there was a terrible shudder, give it a little gas and no shudder. When I drove it around before getting on the freeway it did not do this.

I put it in 4x4 on pavement long enough to feel that the 4x4 was working then straightened out the wheels and could not get it from 4 hi to 2 hi. The guy with me reached over and pulled as hard as he could and finally got it to go into 2 wheel drive.

Any and all help would be great. Stupid me forgot to pull the motor and tranny dipsticks. The truck belonged to Clark County before this guy got it at auction.

No Chevy but the lower my idle the longer for trans to engage. That "terrible shudder" would cause me some concern. Don't know about pollen filter but you fan switch might have burnt/bad speed resistors, happened to me once. I had a 4WD with auto and switching ranges sometimes need a forward-reverse-forward while switching range to unload the gears for disengagement. A trick for quick check is lower idle till barely running, if there's excessive main/rod clearance you should hear it, another is with engine at op temp at night remove oil fill cap and put a bright mini mag light, etc, next to the opening and you'll see how much blowby there is. Definitely check the dipsticks after you drive it for coolant in oil, oil/trans fluid in coolant etc. With that many miles it's sure to have issues, having a shop do an inspection might be a good investment. good luck

Some crappy pics with my chitty camera I wasn't about to bring the good camera to this.

Only a few months what was providing pics for posting here is now relegated to "chitty camera" status.

come on pete you don't have to lie to kick it,you know you be smeling them .......

sometimes smart fellows ARE fart smellows that felt smart

McDonalds straw? :?:

Yeah :clown: givin it the sniff test but excellent reply

I wonder that all the time. I sometimes give em the ol' sniff test just to see. :?: ok, no...I dont really do that.

Is that what you're doing with the McDonalds straw also? :stir:

Think of the weight saving benefits!

Regarding Terminator; What does the sparkplug wrench look like?

Or would you just peal back all the Tin-Foil to get to it?

Looks like a giant condor with irritable bowel syndrome crapped on that bike :poop:

my titan had more get up and go than this thing rode better interior was far superior and much more plush!

Granted yes dodge is simple and the cummins is the sh*t!! Test drove one and i could roast the stockers thru 2nd and most of 3rd but its just that a "SIMPLE" truck! Interior lacked creature comforts and the seating was far from comfortable.

RuN2it there is plenty more than just the information center that is whack but that was the most annoying thing to me lol.

Cruise is on a funky joystick at the bottom of the steering wheel and the steering column isnt telescopic only up and down. i have short legs to i sit a bit closer and i cant push the steering wheel all the way foward to acomodate for my normal sized arms lol Simple but lacks the creature comforts most are acustomed to in a chevy/nissan/hell even ford for that matter.

Well, you know the name ... creature comforts? Dodge! attention to detail? Dodge! They Dodge everything except your $