otis

Hey Dave. Hopefully it'll make it through the weekend. Seems like i get one good run out of her, and something goes wrong...I'll have a back up just in case.. We'll be out there Thursday evening. Usually around bathroom 6. Stop on by..You should be able to reconize my truck...still havent had it painted..haha. Wouldnt mind hooking up for a ride or two!

My Brother in law had an older Toytoa p/u that did the same thing. I asked what the ticking was and he said that Toyota's were known for their "Toyota Tick"... Never explained why, and i didnt ask....

Thanks for everyone's input. Got it running! I rebuilt the carbs including new floats & needles, had the cylinders bored, and got a new set of intakes. Took it out last night for a little break in run, and she ran like a champ! Looks like i'll make it out for Halloween after all!

4 Wheel Parts should have that.. Their prices are fairly reasonable too. 4wp - Suspension Lifts for Tahoe <Link

You can get weekly passes from the machines at Dumont. Here's a link to places around town where you can get annual passes. Pass Info I dont know about out of state reg stickers. Havent had to get those in a few years.

^^ Same here. The straight pipe i put on was a few inches shorter then the muffler so i put a tip on to get it closer to where it originally was. No programmer so i dont have to worry about soot ... If your going to have it exit in front of the rear tire be prepared for drone... 4" < 5" tip

Beautiful car! Needs bigger lights though... :ah: You need a driver or someone to exercise the gaskets once in a while...let me know!

Any info on the truck in the "the last truck" pic? I've been looking for a light bar that attaches to the A piller like that... Link to Picture

I did another compression check after dumping all the fuel out of the pipes and got even worse numbers this time 90/100... Tried your suggestion Bruce. No luck.... I even swapped out both carbs, and ignition coil (just for chits and giggles) and it still wouldnt start.... I think i may have a piston/ring/cylinder tolorance issue... Gonna have them check out... if thats not the problem i'm gonna cry....

I'll 2nd (or 3rd) that.... Havn't "tested" it (and hope i never have to) but it does look purddy...

Anyone know the torque specs on the rear brake caliper bolts? 2005, 2 wheel drive, 5.4L Found it. In case anyone else ever needs it.... Front Caliper Mounting bolts 47ft lbs Rear Caliper Mounting bolts 22ft lbs

At Dumont I run 350 mains, 25 pilot (my bike doesnt like 27.5) and needle clip down one notch. If i do any summer riding i'll toss in a set of 310 mains. I have a feeling that the floats are shot. I havent had a chance to try Bruce's suggestion, but am going to after work today. I might pull the carbs from my other banshee and see if that does the trick. Thanks for everyones input! :mischevious:

Thanks Bruce, I will give that a try. If it doesnt start i will definitely give you a call! Thanks again!

I did a top end rebuild a few months back. Have had it out a few times to break it in, ran fine. Went to take it for a ride last week and it wouldnt start. It has spark, plugs look good, it's getting fuel, but compression seems kind of low for it's mods, 135 left & 120 right. I took the pipes off and found what smells like brake parts cleaner, and looks like watered down coffee (doesnt look or feel like gear oil or coolant) in the expansion chambers, 14oz in the left and 12oz in the right... I pulled the head and kicked the bike over a few times to look for anything unusual but everything looked good. Cylinders still have new hone look. Pulled the reeds, they look good. Cleaned the carbs/jets, checked float height, and check to see if the slides were sticking. Put everything back together and kicked it over a few (hundred) times but it still wouldnt start. I'm stumped.... Bottom end was gone through not too long ago, and all seals were replaced so i dont think its coming from there... I can't think of any reason why it's not starting, or why there was fluid (fuel maybe??) in the pipes? Any suggestions??

What time is this going on till?

Dark blue, line-x'd inside, for 300.00 in TX Diesel Truck Resource

I've heard of people adding 2 stroke oil with every fill up, but i personally am not a fan of any additives. Just #2 for me. Modern diesels are typically good for a couple 100k miles anyway....

Get some 2x6's and prop them up on the wheel wells, or box out the wells if they're not sturdy enough to drive over... for $1500 you can get these...

Here's a couple places i use to get OE type replacement parts. Prices arn't too bad. go to page 20 for gen 3 tailgates if it's not a direct link to that page already. LMC Truck Parts & Keystone Automotive 4701 S. Cameron, Suite D LV NV. 702 247-1313

I dont know the extent of your damage, but I had some body work (tailgate and bed side) done by another member on here. He does Great Work! :beer_bang: PM me of you want his info. Before After

Thanks! i appreciate the help

I'm not sure if thats sarcasim or.... haha Thanks, i'll look into it. You do body work too?

Anyone know of a good paint/body shop in the Henderson area, or know of anybody that does good work and is looking for some side work? I did a search and found a post from a couple year back, but not a big responce on it. Is Sunland Collision on Boulder Hwy still around? This is what i'm looking to have repaired I'm also looking to have the front (chrome) bumper painted to match. Thanks -Chris

Try eBay, or this site maybe.. Raptor

Thanks Guys!..