Yoshi

Cheapest turnkey right now is $31,950. It was $29,950 last week, but I decided to make the reverse diff standard (which has 4" more travel than the sprocket drive), which was a 4k upgrade, so i'm eating 2k to only raise the price 2k.

depends on what you want.........

Yes it is, I was told the major offroad racers are making 400 mile runs without cleaning the filter, so it's suppose to be the best filter on the market.. Thank ya much. Price's vary, but start off around 30k and go up. They are already available, I have 6 of the new style frame already sold/built, 2 are turnkey packages, the other 4 are rollers. I have about 5 or 6 more people about to pull the trigger and get on the list, so about to get booked up for a while.........

Motor should be ready for pickup from the builder tomorrow, then I gotta plug her up and run the fluid lines.. I bought a UMP filter, suppose to be the best setup on the market. It draws air in through the 4" opening at the top, and spins around the inside with a vortex (just like those fancy vacuums that spin like a tornado) it throws all the big stuff to the inside of the aluminum tank, and the filter only has to deal with the finer stuff. It's paper, requires no sprays or chemicals, and is suppose to stay clean a lot longer. It's the same technology that is on all the construction equipment you see doing roadwork, and those see a lot of fine dust. It's an 8" diameter tank that is 14" long. To clean the filter, you unscrew the wing nut on the back, then slide out the filter and tap it on the ground, then stick it back in. I am having to build a custom aluminum air box for the 4" inlet to attach to, so what you are seeing is the rough mock up I just built. I'll have the parts plasma cut and then weld it up. There is an aluminum cover that spans the top of the motor, with a hole for the oil lines and a 4.5" hole for the top of the air filter to stick up, so you won't see any of this from the front or the sides, just a big smooth panel to separate the motor heat from the air intake. So anyway, just felt like sharin....

Might wanna do some research on that car before you get it, Venom doesn't build that busa rail, someone else does, and i'd be more than happy to give you links to topics about the builder of that rail at minibuggy.net and you can decide for yourself........

I appreciate the offer, and will be taking you up on that when I get a motor over here to start mocking up...

2.0 and 2.5 have the same motor mounts to my knowledge, putting a bigger trans would not be a problem, just cost more, adds more weight, and will limit some of the travel, as the flanges are above centerline, where they are below centerline in an 091. I realize there is more power with a 2.5, but i'm guessing the rail will weigh under 1700 pounds with a 2.0, and the 220-280 hp it produces is able to be run through a built 091 with no problems, so it will be lighter and cheaper to go with a turbo 2.0. I'm just gonna bump the frame tubing up to either 1.5" or 1-3/4". I only need to widen the rear motor cage about 3.5" on each side, and my design is already big enough to handle the power...

seriously? I don't care if it's blown up, I just need a motor for mockup....

guess i'm looking for the biggest it could be with a turbo so I know how much space I need to allow for...

what's his price range....

Was curious if I could get some numbers from anyone with a 2.0 or a 2.5 subi and a tranny bolted up. Was thinking about a built 091, but if there is something else you would recommend that doesn't weigh a ton, feel free to put your motor tranny combo and fill in the blanks for measurements. Since i've had quite a few people ask about a subi as an option, I was gonna see how much changing I would have to do to the rear motor compartment to get it in, the width is what concerns me, around 31" is what I believe the motor currently is.. I need height of the motor and tranny, length of the motor, length of the motor with the tranny, width of the motor, width of the tranny, and the distance to the center of the cv flanges from the back of the motor. Is your setup mid or rear as well, any pics you may have would be appreciated as well.... So, thank ya much for any help...

Thank ya much, it's actually the same size as my other rail, only the new chassis is about 70 pounds lighter......

it's only money man, you can't take it with you, lol... A frame kit or roller may be more to your budget though........

Thank ya much, redesigned a lot of stuff on this thing, wasn't cheap either, lol....

ride height fully loaded is 18", but it looks taller because I dropped the middle of the floor down 4.5" lower than the sides and tapered it back so it kinda disappears, you really just see the bottom of the side panels, so it looks higher, and me likey, lol..... It sits on 8 to 9" droop from full extension...

If your interested in a turnkey rail and live in Arizona, or any state touching Arizona, your gonna go through my Exclusive West Coast Distributer, www.federalsandrail.com for the actual purchase, but you can work out any details as far as options, questions during the build, or questions about the rail in general through me...

overall width in the rear is just under 90", overall length with the triple razors up front is just under 12'....

Thanks for all the compliments... 19.5" actual wheel travel with 6.5" ground clearance under full bump...

Everyone is always shocked at the size. I thought the pics of me or my wife standing next to them put them into perspective but I guess not, so I had a brain fart the other day and stuck it next to my shop trucks to really show the size...

Here's a few updated pics of the rail, waiting on wire harness to show up, then bolt on the axles, run the power steering lines as well as radiator and fuel lines and she'll be ready for testing... The black pic is photoshoped color to show what it will look like, I also posted a couple pics next to my shop trucks to show size comparison, everyone thinks it's smaller than it is...

It appears to be running 1 coilover and 1 double bypass on each corner. That looks like a sand candy car, and if it is, it has the worse front suspension I have ever seen on a sandrail, the wheels actually cycle forward as they compress, a big no no, and the builder said it is there for antidive, but the car has no brakes on the front, and anti dive doesn't work like that, it also has some other structural problems. No droop plus tall ride height equals a pogo stick waiting to flip..........

too short will limit your travel before they can get to their max angle......

I just found out that The owner of Predator owned Velocity, and changed his name for some reason.......

No, that's a different buggy, but it's also built in china.....