Yoshi

That happens all the time.

Like these?

Here's a few pics of the new protype. It will have coils and bypass shocks on all 4 corners, fullsize, 31" tall triple razors up front with beadlocks and power steering, full aluminum work including interior panels, LED light bar, and lots and lots of other stuff. Wheels and tires in pics are for mockup.

Well that reply was a bit of a surprise, you'v never said anything bad about my rails before, have you seen it in person? O-well,..you are 1 of 3 people that said they don't like the looks of it...I am building a new model right now, here's pics and specs... http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index....howtopic=119409

14 tooth huh, I would have gone up in the rear, dropped a tooth in the front and maybe removed a link, and/or bought a better chain so it wouldn't stretch so much. You will be lugging the motor more, and will notice it won't climb quite as good as it did before. Here is a really good chain.. Tensile strength exceeds 17,000 pounds, there is nothng that can touch the strength of this bad boy.. http://www.sidewindersprockets.com/xp_extr...ance_chain.html

should use dry lube, any greae or wax you use attracts sand and wears the chain out faster, don't use anything that sand can stick to....

I kept blowing through chain tensioners, plus they were loud too. So I started building my own drive carrier to eleminate the tensioner. The center hole is off center, so you loosen 2 pinch bolts on the housing and rotate the center which tightens the chain, just like a quad. Works great...

Thank ya much. The red tubes in the first picture are all parallel to each other. there is 13 degrees of rake in the front suspension, so the wheels cycle back perfectly inline with the upper red tubes. I designed the nose around the suspension rake. The second pic is to give an idea of the placement for 2 shocks on each wheel....

Made some more progress on the front end, just a couple more tubes and it's done. People think it's a lot bigger than it is, so i'm posting a pic with me standing next to it for reference. I'm, 6'1" and 165 pounds...

I was finally able to start working on this a bit this morning. I got the last few tubes in the tail done (might be adding some more but I think I like the look) and I got the top of the nose finished up. Gonna try and get the lower section of the nose done today... I have a magnet holding up the upper side rail tube, I can' decide if I wanna put it on or not, i'm getting tired of the Funco refrences, lol...

Mild steel, I did a lot of research on metals when I got started, and feel much more comfortable with mild. It has more give, doesn't need to be stress relieved after being welded (which chromo should to be done right, and really never is by people) and will last longer. Chromo is more for racers who are trying to be as light as humanly possible, and they are repairing or replacing their chassis ever season or 2 do to cracking. It may be stronger, but it's harder and vibration effects harder materials more than materials that have some give. Chromo actually has a shelf life, and i've talked to racers that had a chromo frame for a few seasons, that got into a wreck and had a tube literally explode, and not near a weld, but in the middle of the tube. I feel more comfortable with mild steel, and the cage is braced very well, so even being a less hard material than chromo. My cage is well supported to hold up in a variety of possible accidents, better (IMO) than a lot of the full size rails, and that includes those made of chromo. I don't think chromo really has a place in a recreational market that will see years and years of abuse, and mild is more trouble free, and can be made just as safe. It's all in the design, then material choice.....

The only difference in a desert version of my rail, and a sand version are front brakes and prob. a windshield. Front brakes are no problem, already designed my rails to use them and currently installing them on a couple rails, front windshield are in the works, they will be made of lexan and bolt into place, removing them leaves no trace they were there. Outside of that they are fully capable of any hard desert use, I have a customer that mainly hits trails and hills and loves it.... thank ya much.. Should be the same price as my current 2 seater frame which is $6,450.00 for frame, a-arms and trailing arms. Don't know how long before ones ready, shouldn't be much longer. I just need to build a jig off the current chassis after I finish the nose, but i'm already accepting deposits so when i'm ready for full production I can just start poppin them out, got about 6 people extremly interested so far that just want to see the nose completed......

Most of the busa rails are 85 to 90" wide. My current 2 seater rides great and fits in the trailer just fine with it's 90" track width..

Thank ya much, it will have the same track width as my current 2 seater, only 2" longer wheelbase, should actually weigh less, and will be setup to allow coilovers instead of airshocks with bypass, if that's what the customer wants. Even if people don't want a 4 seater they may buy this one and use the rear for a a 3rd. seat only, or no rear seats and have lots of storage space. I'm pretty excited about the build, as are some people very interested in getting one....

Thanks for all the compliments... I just have basic photoshop, so the shading isn't the greatest, but here's an idea of how the side panels will look.... Also, I am working on a secure latching system for the cross tube in front of the rear passenger. That way it just swings up, the rear passenger simply leans forward and steps out the front door. The roof is angled inward from the B pillar forward, so it's not so much a sideways motion to exit as it is a diagonal. Getting in an out of the back seat, before I put that bar in, was a snap through the front door, so I know it work....

Frame is 82" at the widest point which is just below the B pillar base. The 82" is only for the one point though, the front is 51" wide, the rear is 70" wide. The track width is 90" though, so the tires stick 10" on either side of the frame in the back, and about 15" wider in the front......

It may look big, but it looks small with 2 people inside, but there is so much room it's not even funny. Below is a few pics of me and my buddy to show scale. Grizly adams (me) is sitting in the front seat, i'm just over 6'1 and 165 pounds. My buddy in the back is just over 6 foot, and 245 pounds. He has plenty of leg room and elbow room, as do I. It's a 4 seater, but it will drive like a small 2 seater. The motor only pops into the cab a few inches, and there will be a complete fire wall covering it as well...

I decided to start prototyping a 4 seater. I started about 5 pm. tues. evening, worked all day yesterday, and half day today getting it where it's at. I'm really just building it as I go along, no drawings as usual, lol. The chassis is almost done. I have a little more bracing on the floor, the couple diagonal bracing on the passenger side, the undertail tubing and the nose left. Right now, adding all the tubing I have in it so far, and the tubing I will need to finish the floor and tail, the frame weighs about 175 pounds. If I can keep the nose tubing under 39 feet, it will have the same amount of tubing as my 2 seater and will weight the same, if not less. A lot of the internal bracing would be compression loads, so I can prob. drop it down to like 63 wall instead of the 110 wall it already is. I will do the main structure and suspension outta 120, the side rails outta 95, and prob. all the bracing outta 65 wall. I designed it to use the same trailing arms I already have on my 2 seater, so that's one less thing I have to build. Right now, i'm gonna set it up for a busa powerplant. I will do some motor work as well as gear it lower to compensate for the extra load of 2 more passengers, but I believe the entire rail will weigh less than my current 2 seater (under 1300 pounds), and I know it pushed me and a 350 pound passenger around with no problems. A turbo is also an option The track width is 90", the same as my 2 seater, and the wheelbase is 114", which is only 2" longer than my current 2 seater and put the overall length just under 12 foot, so it will fit in the toy hauler without removing the paddles. I set the rear seats off to the side of the front seats, this allows me to run the rear passengers legs next to the front seats, therefor moving the front seats back closer to the rear. There is also a huge spot in front of the motor that I will prob. use to instal the gas tank, and then a big storage compartment above it. The motor will have a full fire wall around it where it enters the cab between the seats, which isn't much. The red represents some of the bracing I will be adding on the floor. The cool thing about it is, people may buy it and not use the rear seats, they may just use it for big storage space, cause there would be a lot of it back there. Anyway, just felt like sharin, and i'll update this as I go along.......

lol,..ok, I will start a log on the build here.........

Ok, here ya go, not finished but getting pretty close. You were worried about not being sportscar feel enough? Well, it's 90" wide, same as my 2 seater, and at 114" wheelbase, it's only 2 inches longer than my current 2 seater putting it under 12 foot which means it will fit in the toy hauler. AND, I think it's gonna wigh less than my current 2 seater, so lemme know what you think...http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index....howtopic=112841

Who you calling a heffer? And I don't have a blue tie.....

lol,..well, my goal will be to build something you would be proud to sport around, lol. It's only gotta 2" longer wheelbase than my current 2 seater. You don't have to use the rear seats, you could build some custom coolers to haul around your kegs man, lol. I think it will be about as nimble as my 2 seater, same track width, a little more weight.....

You thought about buying a used busa rail? There are some really good deals around right now, a few were posted in here in the last couple days. You will get so much bang for your buck, and will spend less on a car that will smoke most of the chevy motors. You should really go take a ride in one, a lot of people are selling their bigger rails to get a busa rail. Gas is cheaper, maintenece is cheaper, more reliable, cheaper to get to the dunes, more fun etc. Shop around, you can find them for good deals if you look. Here's a smokin deal on a 1000cc powered rail that just sold, this thing just got built and has almost no hours on it, he sold it waaaaaay too cheap.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=110150076949

well, I finally started mocking up my 4 seat busa rail. I have just over half built as a full scale mockup outta wooden dowels, the same way I designed all my other rails. I think you'll find the bracing inside will rivial pretty much any fullsize car, and yes, i'm still using 1.25" tubing. I have a few x bracing inside the cab behind the driver seats and behind the passenger seats, that tubing will be thinner wall so I can keep the weight down a bit. It's a little different seating arrangement and has the same lines my current rails have, I have the wheelbase around 114" and it is under 12 foot long and 90" wide, so it will fit in the trailer, and the roof isn't nearly as long as what is currentaly avaliable. I've been getting a lot of calls on them, and could have sold 4 at the last show my rail was in had I offered them, so maybe I can sway your opinion about busa powered 4 seaters being ugly and needing bigger tubing, lol...