Yoshi

I don't know too much about it, His name is Brian and he lives in Seattle. His cell number is 1-425-894-8621, he said he is willing to do some of the driving to deliever it, but you can talk to him about it. I don't think it will last too long at that price, he's just trying to get a big lump of cash together so he can get more options on the car from me he's buying.......

And if your interested, I have a customer selling a short sand car for like 11k to get rid of it quick, it was his wifes car, has a set of dirt and sand tires and a rotax motor, would be a good deal for someone wanting to get into a minirail cheap.....

I think it's a legitimate question/concern, you are taking a streetbike motor and setting it up to push a considerable amount more weight. I have been building mc powered cars for over 3 years now, and even when i made the busa powerplant manditory and had first hand experience with them and knew how much power they had, I still had doubts about how good a 4 seater would actually be under the same powerplant when I saw the short car. It's not just the extra weight of the rail, it's the 2 other people as well. Honestly, until about 2 months ago I still had doubts about the busa'a abality to haul more than 2 people. It wasn't till I gave my 360 pound buddy a ride, and being one 100 percent certain I would notice the rail lugging at least a little, and the rail acted as if I was driving by myself, that I realized that the motors can push a lot more weight than I had given them credit for, and mine was bone stock. I am actually starting up some designs for a 3 seater that I want to build, not sure if I wanna go for the 4 seater yet, (because of the length and the fact that I will continue to use 1.25" tubing), but a 3 seater won't be much wider and I will be able to keep the same wheelbase and track width. If I can build one of them and it looks good and feels adequet on the power, I will maybe atempt a 4 seater, but Appearance is a huge thing for me so no matter how good it drives, if i'm not happy with the way it looks I won't sell them. I recieved a lot of calls from people wishing I at least made a 3 seater, so I am prob. gonna start fabbing one up if I get many more calls on them and someone willing to drop a little extra to get the prototype built, but that may still be a while as the 2 seaters are keeping me plenty busy, and I am not even trying to sel lthe single seaters anymore because they take longer to build than my 2 seaters....

Hey, I was in there..... :blush:

well,..I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night...

the boots do make her a little more tolerable though.......the rest of the time it's just

That would be my wife, and she is still costing me to this day so I wouldn't recommend that option, lol...

In my rail I only offer the busa powerplant, but if you were to get a roller package and I could leave out the few tubes that actually attach to the busa powerplant. You could do the R1 instal yourself, and the total to build the rail would be about 9k cheaper than buying the complete from me. All the structural welding is done minus the powerplant, so if your fairly handy with bolting and wiring up parts, you only need minor welding for the motor and the tabs for the gas tank, radiator, gas tank, etc.. I am really too busy trying to fill orders to do a one off and line up another powerplant. I could also build a complete rail that is fully assembled without the powerplant tabs, you could let the air outta the shocks, take the wheels off and set up the frame for the powerplant of your choice, I take off 4k for no motor and instal on my completes.

Not exactly sure, but Tom Pro uses the units and says it takes 5 hp which really isn't that much.....

How far are you from Scottsdale Arizona?

ding......

uploading now *que the elevator music*

i'll snap them off,..give me about 5 min. to get them uploaded.....

If you don't have to have reverse than the sprocket drive is a lot of fun, if you have to have reverse, you can have the live axles and have just as much fun, only slightly less hp, but if you want turning brakes you would need the reverse diff unit which is about 30 pounds heavier and will loose a little more hp. It won't loose all by any means, but you rob hp going through gears and secondary chains where the sprocket drive is direct and the most effeciant for hp to the ground..

actually, the radiator, gas tank, gauges and panel tabs are done out of the fixture....

Thank ya much, when I first started, I was building the frames in the jig and then pulling them out to hand align the motor and subframe depending on what they wanted, so I set the jig up to do al lthe motor mounts so they are all the same. All the tabs, from the shocks to the suspension to the motor to the seat's are done in the fixture so after it gets assembled in the jig, it's flipped for welding and ready for powdercoat. It works out great for the customers as well so they can save some money on the sprocket drive setup and upgrade to a reverse later when the funds are available and not have to chop up the frame.My jig is pretty elaborate, every tube and tab is aligned in the fixture, it took 3 weeks and about 7 grand to get it where it's at and worth every penny.. It comes apart in 9 pieces and we call it, "JIGZILLA"

lol,..you did fine, I thought it was a scoop which is why I liked the looks of it, now if it was suppose to be a radiator that would be different, lol.. And i'm not that good at photoshop either, I can place dots and lines here and there, sometimes squiggly, sometimes straight, depends on the weather...

I prefer the live axle setup which is the hub version. I actually prefer the sprocket drive since it's the lightest and has the most hp, I don't need reverse, just getting out of the trailer and a lot of people feel the same. Now, if you plan on tight trails and/or want a turning brake, than the reverse diff is the unit for you. Just so you know, I have designed my frames to accept any of the 3 subframes, the motor has a set of spacers on one side of the motor, so if you want a sprocket drive at first to save some money and have the most hp, you can get it and purchase a subframe with a Jeffco unit later. The subframe has 4 bolts and the motor has 5 bolts so it's a swap that requires basic tools and no frame modification, you simply swap the motor spacers from one side to the other and your good. What's your intended use, sand, dirt, etc....?

yerp, front hubs and beadlock wheels are now standard, the rotors bolt to the back of the hubs and the calipers bolt to brackets on the spindles. I have 2 reverse units, one is a reverse diff, the other is a reverse hub that is 30 pounds lighter and has less hp loss. It has no diff and I prefer the live axles, but you can have the diff for a grand more.. This is the reverse diff in one of my rails. I have a reverse hub in the shop if you want me to snap a picture off of it..... either unit has no chain tensioner, the unit piviots back to tighten up the chain..

maybe I should have put "SSS" instead of "S" eh?

just reread you post, that is suppose to be a scoop you drew, lol...

I like the wiring box where it is, there are a bunch of plugs off the motor that are only so long and they all reach right into the box so they connectout of sight, everything from the stater cover on the left of the motor to the whatever that wire is that comes from the right of the motor. If I could move the gas tank to the front of the rail, or better yet down low on the sides and behind the seats, there would be plenty of room to put the radiator and oil cooler where the gas tank is. I do kinda like that black box you mounted up there, even though i'm sure it's suppose to be the radiator, I think it looks cool as a scoop which would allow me to angle the radiator inside the frame more and have the scoop direct air down to it, I may play with that.The most important thing to me about the placement of anything is, outside the lights, I want everything tucked inside the frame incase of a flip. I've seen rails that had minor rollovers that did no damage to the rail, but since the gas tank and/or radiator were outside the frame, they were damaged and the rail was stranded. That's why I don't run wings and why my tail tubing goes back so far when a lot of rail leave motors, gas tanks, radiators, etc. sticking out and able to be damaged in a flip... The pipe does stick out a bit in the rear, but that was a one time deal, my new headers are built so I can have the exhaust tuck in more on the right side of the tail instead of popping out the middle, I actually cut the can down about 6 inches to get it where it's at....

If someone is building them for him for his rails I wouldn't want to take his design, I just thought someone may be selling them to rails and until I gt the time to come up with my own I thought it would be a nice touch for my rails......So yeah, if you don't mind giving someone uh holla and seeing what the deal is i'd appreciate it... Soon as you find out, just put the letter "S" ontop of a big boom lights that shoot up into the sky and I will find you....

Some people don't like it, it can be moved if a customer wanted it somewhere else, I just set it up to be as functional as possible and I believe that's the spot for it, but it really doesn't matter to me, I just do what I get paid to do cause it's the customers rail, not mine ok,..if someone wanted a pink one, i'd prob. tell them to find another builder, lol...

I spent a lot of time studying and researching stuff before I got into building rails, I don't know everything, but I do know every inch of my rail and can tell you why I have everything the way it is. We also custom build a lot of the parts since what was available has weaknesses, like the sprocket drive, it's got (2) 3.5 inch diameter bearings that are 1" thick, they are sealed and have oil seals for extra measure, the hole through the middle is offcenter so you loosen 2 pinch bolts and twist the internals to tighten the chain, no tensioner. We also make the bearing carriers, spindles, plunging u-joint axles and a lot of other things.I never thought it looked funny, besides the nose, up high is the best place. I have seen more rails and trucks with the high mount setup than I can count so I never felt I was doing something that was totally different with the placement...