suspension/cv problems

[SAND~~SNAKE]

I recently purchased a complete used mid travel suspension for my low budjet project I have a chenowth frame that had standard travel (stock susp) I now have just installed 3X3 arms, fox 2.0 coilovers for the rear and 930 cv's , the arms had shock mounts already, I had an offroad susp guy build upper shock mounts and set up my shocks, so I got the arms , spring plates and shocks, axles installed and am having a problem w/ the left inner cv binding, the right side is fine. I have measured my frame, arms and spring plates from side to side and they are both equal. I have the cv's clocked correctly, I swapped axles from side to side to find i still have the same problem. was wondering if anyone had any suggestions? how would I determine my cv angle? I dont think the angle I am at is maxed out because only one side is doing this, and like i said I am pretty sure I have both sides set up exactly the same...google is a wonderful thing, I can find out how to Crochet a Quilt , or fix my computer but I can't seem to find the info I am looking for?

and please none of this

or this

and this

already posted the same at g/d

Edited October 16, 2006 by SAND~~SNAKE

[justken]

Now this is just from lookin at the pics you have posted, but it looks to me as if the drivers side of the transaxle is higher then the other.... like the motor is tipped a little to the passenger side thats what i'm seeing... it could just be the the way you took the photos but thats what it looks like to me

Just my .02

oh ya there you go had to be done

[JoeDuner]

Try this out........http://www.outbackmotors.com/cv_assembly.htm

[JoeDuner]

Try this out........http://www.outbackmotors.com/cv_assembly.htm

CV Assembly 101

CV maintenance is an important part to prevent ruining a perfectly good weekend. It's recommended you inspect your CV's every 15th trip to the dunes, or at least once every 2yrs, whichever comes first. Inspection requires disassembly of the CV and wiping off all the grease so you can see the metal surfaces for wear, pits, or cracks. If it's your first time to inspect a CV it's recommended you consult with someone "in the know" so you can learn what you're looking for. Most of the reputable parts houses who sell CV's can help you with that.

After you have your CV's ready to put together you need to assemble them in a certain order. There is a wrong way to assemble them, so don't assume any order is OK. Here are some tips:

1. The cage opening is slightly larger on one side. The large side is the side you install the star gear from, it barely fits.

2. Before you put the ball bearings in, put the star in the outer case. Then insert the ball bearings in by twisting the star gear within the outer case to expose the bearing race opening. If the star doesn't move freely after you install each ball bearing, you've assembled it wrong. If this happens you likely have the star clocked one cog off. Take the balls out and reclock the star, moving the star one cog either direction.

3. When you have all the ball bearing installed in with the parts assembled like in this picture, the next step is packing it with grease. Before getting started with the grease, cut 1/2" X1/2" squares of duct tape, you'll need 24 of them for a set of 930's. Put a duct patch over each hole in the outer case. This will keep all the grease out of the holes, very important so the loc-tite isn't compromised with grease.

4. Next, put on LATEX GLOVES. This can be a messy job for the novice. Keeping the grease in the CV joint and off your hands is next to impossible, even for an experienced mechanic. Take your time, don't rush it.

5. Use a grease needle adapter, it makes the job of inserting the grease a lot easier. You can buy them for about $15 to $20 at Napa, Autozone, even Harbor Freight. If you have trouble with the zerk fitting coming out of your grease gun fitting while in use, duct tape can aid to prevent that from happening.

6. A common grease to use Swepco, costs about $8/tube. Another common grease to use is Belray, which is about $22/tube. You can usually pack 2 CV's with one tube of grease. Many of the racers use a mix of 50% to 75% Swepco and the rest Belray. Just put the Swepco in first then put in the Belray if you want to use a mix. There's no need to hand mix the two greases buy hand, the CV will mix it up on the first ride.

7. If your job is a first time assembly, make sure the CV bolts are the right length for the transaxle side. If they are too long they will carve up the transaxle case, a bad things. Sometimes using the wrong washers will let too much bolt be exposed on the back side of the CV flange.

8. If your job is a reassembly of worn CV's, make sure your bolts are clean and dry so the loc-tite will work best. Use carburetor dip to clean the used bolts, then hose them off and blow dry with air hose (if you're in a hurry).

9. Put the CV's on the axle, put on the axle clips, and remove the duct tape squares. With the CV's on the axle, carefully reinstall the axles, slowly. Be careful the CV's don't get twisted during reinstallation. If they do you could lose a ball bearing, which is not good after you remove the duct tape patches. Install one bolt at 12 o'clock on each end first without Loc-tite by fingers, this will hold the axle in place so you can take your time with each bolt with Loc-tite. Don't forget to remove the 12 o'clock bolts at the end and reinstall with Loc-tite.

10. Always use Loc-tite on each bolt. The "red" grade of Loc-tite is too strong, we don't recommend using it. The 'blue" grade of Loc-tite is best for most duning enthusiasts. "Blue" makes it easier to disassemble for inspections.

11. Torque the bolts to 45ft lbs. When you get both CV's done on the first axle, test it by spinning the axle while in neutral, just to make sure the bolts clearances for the transaxle is acceptable.

How do you know if your axles are long enough, or too long? Lift your car so the rear swing-arms are at full droop. Grab the axle and move it left and right, toward the trans, then toward the wheel. If you have at least a 1/4" of movement your axles are long enough. Then raise the swing-arm so the axle stub is at the same level at the transaxle flange, which is the shortest distance (you may need to remove your shocks to do this) between the wheel stub and trans. Then grab the axle and move it left and right again. If you have at lease 1/4" of play, your axle isn't too long.

[sanddunesaddict]

Your balls are to big,get the smaller balls.

You have old balls

cv balls that is

[Jess@HighAngle]

I have another person who agree's with my passenger side tip- Jess

[barneycar]

have you check the the meserment or the axles to see if they are hiting the stubs.

had to have my axles cut so they would work

[1sicbuggy]

take it to woolworth they will get you set up