iweb Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) I am working on a trade for a 2002 GMC 2500 4x4 with auto and 6.0L motor, 230,000 miles. I drove it today and it ran good, no smoke, tranny shifted ok, 4x4 worked, ran down the hwy at 80 mph ok. Now the questions: when I go from park into drive it takes a slow count to 4 or 5 before it does anything, put it in reverse and it goes right in. A/c is cold but no air volume coming out of vents. When I got off the freeway and onto surface streets when I let off the gas there was a terrible shudder, give it a little gas and no shudder. When I drove it around before getting on the freeway it did not do this. I put it in 4x4 on pavement long enough to feel that the 4x4 was working then straightened out the wheels and could not get it from 4 hi to 2 hi. The guy with me reached over and pulled as hard as he could and finally got it to go into 2 wheel drive. Any and all help would be great. Stupid me forgot to pull the motor and tranny dipsticks. The truck belonged to Clark County before this guy got it at auction. Edited December 21, 2009 by iweb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanddunesaddict Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) I am working on a trade for a 2002 GMC 2500 4x4 with auto and 6.0L motor, 230,000 miles. I drove it today and it ran good, no smoke, tranny shifted ok, 4x4 worked, ran down the hwy at 80 mph ok. Now the questions: when I go from park into drive it takes a slow count to 4 or 5 before it does anything, put it in reverse and it goes right in. A/c is cold but no air volume coming out of vents. When I got off the freeway and onto surface streets when I let off the gas there was a terrible shudder, give it a little gas and no shudder. When I drove it around before getting on the freeway it did not do this. I put it in 4x4 on pavement long enough to feel that the 4x4 was working then straightened out the wheels and could not get it from 4 hi to 2 hi. The guy with me reached over and pulled as hard as he could and finally got it to go into 2 wheel drive. Any and all help would be great. Stupid me forgot to pull the motor and tranny dipsticks. The truck belonged to Clark County before this guy got it at auction. Either a plugged trans filter or it needs a trans Needs new pollen filters. Pinion bearing going out,carrier bearing or a bad u joint Binding shift linkage or bent shift fork in tranfer case Just an opinion as I am no mechanic Edited July 11, 2009 by sanddunesaddict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUn2it Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I am working on a trade for a 2002 GMC 2500 4x4 with auto and 6.0L motor, 230,000 miles. I drove it today and it ran good, no smoke, tranny shifted ok, 4x4 worked, ran down the hwy at 80 mph ok. Now the questions: when I go from park into drive it takes a slow count to 4 or 5 before it does anything, put it in reverse and it goes right in. A/c is cold but no air volume coming out of vents. When I got off the freeway and onto surface streets when I let off the gas there was a terrible shudder, give it a little gas and no shudder. When I drove it around before getting on the freeway it did not do this. I put it in 4x4 on pavement long enough to feel that the 4x4 was working then straightened out the wheels and could not get it from 4 hi to 2 hi. The guy with me reached over and pulled as hard as he could and finally got it to go into 2 wheel drive. Any and all help would be great. Stupid me forgot to pull the motor and tranny dipsticks. The truck belonged to Clark County before this guy got it at auction. No Chevy but the lower my idle the longer for trans to engage. That "terrible shudder" would cause me some concern. Don't know about pollen filter but you fan switch might have burnt/bad speed resistors, happened to me once. I had a 4WD with auto and switching ranges sometimes need a forward-reverse-forward while switching range to unload the gears for disengagement. A trick for quick check is lower idle till barely running, if there's excessive main/rod clearance you should hear it, another is with engine at op temp at night remove oil fill cap and put a bright mini mag light, etc, next to the opening and you'll see how much blowby there is. Definitely check the dipsticks after you drive it for coolant in oil, oil/trans fluid in coolant etc. With that many miles it's sure to have issues, having a shop do an inspection might be a good investment. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks for the input so far! Pete, you on vacation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Is the tranny a 4L60E OVERDRIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ? Same as a 700r? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanddunesaddict Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Its the newer electronic updated version but some of the hard parts are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 I talked to a tranny shop today and he says the tranny is bad, slow to engage is bad clutches and bands and the shudder slowing down is the torque converter not unlocking due to being bad or having junk in there. He quoted me $1800 to rebuild it so I am looking for a used 4L80 if anyone knows of one pls let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Thanks for the input so far! Pete, you on vacation? oop, sorry! Bert pretty much summed everything up though. He is half right about not being a tech , but he does work at Hend Chevy with me. :mog: Call Greenleaf Auto Recyclers. They usually have low mile transmissions, engines, etc for pretty cheap. You might be able to pick up an 80 for a decent price. :mog: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 There is one on Craigslist, says put a new one from dealer in and truck caught on fire, he wants $750. Do you think a filter change and flush would do the trick? Do you experts agree about the torque converter making it shudder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Is there any difference between a 4L80 and a 4L80E? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halestorm6669 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 there are cabin filters under dash will fix problem.about 22 dollars trans can be checked with computer scanner for codes and pressure.flush and filter may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 There is one on Craigslist, says put a new one from dealer in and truck caught on fire, he wants $750. Do you think a filter change and flush would do the trick? Do you experts agree about the torque converter making it shudder? Actually, a filter change and flush would probably make it worse. seriously Is there any difference between a 4L80 and a 4L80E? yes, 4L80E's are the newer version (electronic) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Crap, how do I know which one is in a 2002? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 You have the E. I believe they came out sometime in the 90's. But give me the vin # and I can look up the built sheet and also have our parts dept look up the part # so you get the right one. Also is this reg, ext cab, or crew? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 I have the vin at home, so I will have to wait, it is a reg cab. The service engine light is on, he says he checked it and it is a knock sensor??? Also what is the going price at the dealership for 8 lug 16" take offs and 5 lug 15" take offs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 I have the vin at home, so I will have to wait, it is a reg cab. The service engine light is on, he says he checked it and it is a knock sensor??? Also what is the going price at the dealership for 8 lug 16" take offs and 5 lug 15" take offs? We haven't had any take offs in a while. IF the code is for a knock sensor, chances are it may need both (2) knock sensors plus maybe even the jumper harness. They are underneath the intake manifold, but it's not that big of a job. Water gets under there and pools up in the knock sensor holes corroding the sensor and connector. I can price the stuff out for you if you'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Pete, I sent a PM with the vin number. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Ok we traded for the truck yesterday. It runs great, shifts great even going up the pass but still takes allot of time to go from park to drive. I did pull the dip stick and the fluid is burnt. It has a big oil leak and the son found it today. Where the transfer case connects to the tranny there is a bracket that is suppose to hold up the transfer case. It is broken so the transfer case is loose. Now the problem is we are not sure if the broken piece is the bracket or a part of the transfer case since you can't really see on top but you can feel nuts or bolts up there. And why is the transfer case loose where it bolts up to the tranny? Any ideas and is there someplace online to see pics so we know what we are dealing with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Rhino Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 sounds like a cash for clunkers ad its worth $4500 on a trade in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 Got it figured out thanks to PM's to Pete except for the fluid. Dipstick says to use Dexron 3, went to 3 stores and there is no Dexron 3. Valvoline that replaces Dexron 3 and mercron, Dexron 6 that replaces Dexron3, Dexron 5, Dexron 6 full synthetic. Any idea what I should use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Hey iweb, got it figured out. iweb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 Son changed the spacer between transfer case and tranny, that was what was broke and leaking. He test drove it around here for a few days and no problem. Drove it to Salt Lake City and between 60 mph and 80 mph there is a terrible vibration, other speeds no vibration and the closer he got to SLC it was hard to tell at what speeds it would or would not vibrate. Any ideas? U joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I'd lean towards a bad U joint or bent driveshaft. Those speeds are pretty typical of driveline vibrations. Have the driveline checked for straight. It's not too expensive. Adam's Driveline here in Hendo is pretty reasonable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparskin18 Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) Adam's Driveline here in Hendo is pretty reasonable. x 2 on that!!! My buddies 2002 2500hd w/8'' lift and 37's was tearing up carrier bearings.... took it over to Adams and he installed some kind of driveshaft that they use on semi's that was 3 seperate pieces connected by u-joints Edited December 21, 2009 by Moparskin18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) Single cab so no carrier bearings, will check the drive line, guess I have to run to SLC and haul her home. Had a thought, since he drove it for a month or so before fixing the oil leak and it didn't have the vibration then or during the check period after fixing the leak would the drive line be the problem? Shouldn't it have done this all the time since we bought it and could he have not lined it up right when he hooked it back up? He left the end connected to the rear end so just disconnect the front part. Edited December 21, 2009 by iweb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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