1320

that is nice, I d have one, but it looks hard to drive around town, like when your grocery shopping , running around. Probably makes almost the same power as my dodge, just weights 10k lbs more :headbang: .

If you can pull this then you have a truck. My 203k mile dodge still has the stock head gasket and sees 50 psi daily, and pulls that monster up baker at 75, potosi? thats a bump in the road not a hill.

It seems that we almost expect to get ripped off, we spend most of our day trying not to get ripped off infact, no matter what it is. I own a rental income property that I had a ac problem with one of the units. After several weeks and two different companies "looking at it" one twice , and three friends giving opinons (one an ac tech himself that was gonna rip me off as well), blah blah blah, I give Joe a call......and my world is turned upsidedown. He gives the human race hope, a truthful, fair business that has deffinately earned my respect. I have more then a couple ac units out there, and Joe is deffinately my only call to make. Joe, if you ever need anything at all, give me call and Ill do my best.

Yes, thanks again Joe. I can t believe it, Joe runs a first class place.

Joe, I would sure edit or delete what ever needed. I told my story, in part to protect another from the same or similar outcome and in part to hopefully resolve it. BTW, I need a new AC unit on an apartment building I own......you interested? Its a package unit, roof mounted, 2.5 or 3 ton should do just fine, its a 2 story.

it actually happened ahile ago, I emailed him nicely trying to work it out, asking nicely what he was going to do about it? I actually thought he must have sent the wrong heads, as soon as I saw the weight on the box at 115lbs I thought utoh.....After 2 or 3 nice emails with correspondence back (just a quote) no actual correspondence I guess, I got kinda pissed, then sent another saying exactly what I wanted.....all my $$ back.....and he could have the heads back (but he pay shipping) or send me 160$ and I d keep them.....I dont even think they are worth that but what was I going to do? No responce at all, I waited, and waited........then I posted.

I will voluntarily also offer up this information. Every email was labeled 317 heads. 317 heads are aluminum and the reason they are called 317 heads is because they say "317" on them, on the leading edge. The ones sold do not.... What am I going to do about it? Apparently nothing as he is 307 miles away. This has been up for days now......hmmmm.. I guess if I remeber Ill stop by his place next time I make it to Bakersfield. Although maybe thats already punishment enough, just living in Bakersfield.

He sold me gen 3 ls 317 heads.....turns out he doesn t know his a$$ from 317 heads. IE they say 317 on them..........and would be aluminum. I tried many times to work out the problem via email but he has not responded to the latest. He sent NON 317 heads.....cast iron too........He claimed they were 317 heads from a 345hp gen 3 ls engine from 2003 I believe.....No 345 hp in 03 from gm had IRON heads......I paid 235$ for at best 50$ heads. Infact I have 10 sets of aluminum 346 ls1 heads.....all of which are worth about 50$ a set.....and they are aluminum. I be glad to sell any of them for that. I hate it when people don t know sh*t. 235$.............not a good choice for enemies forever you a-hole. oh, he solicted me via email about 317 heads, along time after he apparently put an ad on the site for them where he posted a picture, that I was never shown cause he solicted me via email....In the picture I did not see I was expected to see they are iron.....and apprently not 317 heads or from the engine he said they were........

wow, I looked on ebay and can t find one. Just curious, what they are, how much they go for? etc....my wife is considering riding her r6 to work.......I d consider a hybred conversion for my 1060 metropolitan and that sounds interesting.

I run a 12 valve cummins. I ve sustained 1300-1350 for 14-16 hrs straight before. I used to keeep it just under 1400 pulling hills. Im pre turbo ib the exhuast manifold. That was when it had twin coumpound turbos and just the stock intercooler. I ran up to 40 psi towing , it will go to 55-60psi. Since then I ve added two more intercoolers, large ones in a custom bumper I made. Now I only see 1250-1300 on the out side, ussually its down around 1050-1150. I pull a 50 ft enclosed trailer 16-20k lbs for the trailer the truck is 7400 lbs. To get 1300 out of it I have to pull pottisi at 65 70 but traffic is ussually in the way. Baker grade it pulls at 70-75 at 1250 or so then creep up to 1350 at the top. It runs better at 1300, since it has just over 200k miles. I still hold boost to under 40-45 most of the time.

I agree, if it works don t fix it. I think you could make more power with the cummins, err more towing power. You could possibily get better reliabilty. I d like to think the cummins is the best engine, but they all have bad stories, it just depends on who you talk to. I drive 3500 dually ram with a cummins. Its 12 valve though, not a 24, it the 98, the last year for the 12 valve. Its over 200k miles now. The mega cab I don t belive is available in a long bed or a dually though, so towing big with one is gonna take a slder hitch and probably overload the tires before you overload the truck itself. After towing with a dually, and a gooseneck and 5 th wheel, I have no plans to ever go back to a single rear whelel truck or a tag trailer.

Power is power.......and I agree that most people would never know duning. BTW I have a busa (1397)

IMO you should degree them. There is probably some power missing. Did you readjust the valves?

both auto or manuals should have an exhuast brake if you tow a fairly heavy load with a deisel. Deisels don t have compression braking, so the exhuast brake has that function. Some of the oems its an option, I know dodge has their approved exhuast brake for the rams,I suppose ford and gm may have the same. The only problem is that they charge a lot for them, around 50% more then if it was private or non dealer installed. I think most new ones are 600-1200, but I might be wrong, Ive had mine for years.

Why is it that this site lets you load pictures and others dont? Always a link or server etc....but this site lets you click click and the pictures up? What is different about this site, cause I think all sites should be like this one.

Today while unloading a flat bed trailer, the trailer got in a fight with my hitch and my hand got in the middle. At first I was pretty sure it broke a bone or two. First thing I did was count fingers....Turns out its much better then it lookes. Just bruised and cut. But I don think dumont will be good for it this week end or easter.... the picture? just cause.

wow a good thread forsure. A couple thgs that are not real clear though. I don t know what cal does but in NV, the class A non cdl is a written and drive test only. No physical. Its sorta true about the "smaller trucks " having a higher tow capacity, but with any single rear wheel truck you will probably reach the tire load rating limits before the trucks. The lifted trucks for the most part should npt tow some of the things out there. 3600lbs was the highest rating on the chart, thats only 7000 lbs total on the rear, and I wouldn t want to run them at the limit towing across a hot desert hiway. Heat kills tires. I ve pulled a lot. I currently pull a 50 ft enclosed trailer. Its easier to pull then a 20 ft tag. I would never choose to go back to a tag. Mine is a Goose Neck, but a 5th is pretty similar, and I ve pulled them too. If you are pulled over, your actual weight does not matter (unless over). The only thing that matters is the rated weight. If your toy hauler has a GVW of 15000 and your truck is 11500 on the door, your pretty screwed. It does not matter that it really only weighs 22000 total, its taged to 26500, and you need to be licensed if it CAN carry over 26000. I love my big trailer, I m very happy I went big. I can get two cars in it, and two quads, and its outfitted like a toy hauler, bed, sink etc....2 roof airs, generator. You should out fit your truck accorsdingly to your trailer choice. The best mirrors you can get, rear tv for some people is handy, carry two way radios so who ever goes with you can help out in tight spots, exhuast brake for the truck, the best tires you can get, esspecially if its a srw. Most guys who pull for profit, use manuals. Its just a money thing and the manuals wins teh upkeep battle. I run a nv5600 (6 speed) with a south bend clutch and two oil coolers. It was about a 3000$ conversion after I broke the input shaft on my 5 speed pulling a hill. Not uncommon in my truck since it makes over 1000 ft lbs. That conversion was still way less then a name brand auto rebuild. My 5 speed lasted 194 k miles behind a 12 valve cummins. If you pull heavy, you should consider a hand held temp gun, to check tire temps, and rear diff etc...or get something like a mag hytec cover and gauge and probe it. Like the regular cab, tw drive example of pulling the most, its best to keep you truck light essecially if your close to be loaded to max. I run alcoas (wheels) partly cause they look good but they also lower my base weight slightly, I only carry what I need, I try to keep the truck clean. Don t le the work tools etc build up. A glass hood looks pretty good, and cuts 50 - 75 lbs of the weight. This is huge if your GCVW is 2610......it puts you under the 26 k lb limit. If you over load a 10k lb truck and a 12k lb trailer by a 1000 lbs....no big deal in the laws eyes ussuly, but if its 26000 and it is suppose to be 25999 or under.....you have a problem. When your on the road, the chp should look at you and be able to tell if you took precautions and are aware of what your pulling, if you look like an amature they will inform you. If you can t afford the 1000-2000$ for extra stuff to pull safely then don t buy the 30k $ toy hauler, get the 28k $ and do it right.

wow, you guys make me feel great. That truck could never pull my trailer, weighs more than my truck and makes way less power. 12 valve ram

I talked with air ride tech at the sema show, and they said it was their stuff on some funco cars. He also explained to me how to do it. My question is, the cost seems to be about the same as a spring shock and res, but will air ride perform. I m looking for a nice ride. I think that with alittle programming, that hieght sensors and speed input could help control the ride. Ie speed goes up, the car lowers itself. If the wheel extends, it knows that it need more air to land, if the front end is raised like climbing a hill, the car lowers itself. The car leans left, it preloads the right side alittle more. I just want a nice soft ride.....really.

Discuss: long travel suspension. 1.shock/ spring 2. shock/spring, shock res 3. air shocks, I don t know much about these, limitations? 4. air ride 5. air ride, shock res

If you have an acurate weight , can you post it and what type? standard or long travel? 4 cylinder or v8?

Actually most rails have the seat belts mounted incorrectly. The above rail is no exception, unless your very very very short those belts are in wrong. The shoulder harness mount should not be below your shoulders. Or above. If you error on one side or the other its ussually to mount below the should, but it should NEVER exceed a 45 degree angle, or about 4 inches below the shoulder. IMO it should be 75-90 degrees to your shoulders. In an impact, if the shoulder belt mount is below your shoulders, the impact causes the belt to shorten as your body pushed against it, thus causing compression fractures of your spine. In the above rail , I thnk most adults will have there shoulders above the corner of the seats even, and by running the belts through the seat you make the angle much much to great. Even over the top of the seat for most adults (me anyways but Im tall) the rear bar would be to low to get a safe angle on the belt. OEM belts are designed to last. Oem cars are designed soft.....most things in cars now are soft, not like a 57 chevy steel dash or a roll bar in a rail. OEM's also have air bags..... The belts are not designed to be the sole source of deceleration in other words. Crush zones, air bags, softer interior plastic etc....all slows down the impact. In a rail, not much if anything gives.....geuss were the force of the impact lands then....on you, caus ethe car doesn t absorb any. Racing belts are your sole source of controlled deceration. Racing belts ARE designed to strech up to 25% on impact. That is why you always were them tight. They will be loose after an impact, if you were them loose you run the risk of slipping through or have your body move much more then you expected. This runs big risks in rails with solid odjects all around you , the roll bar. Uv (sun light) degrades the racing belts webbing, making it brittle, taking the strech out of the belt. With enough exposure the threading can break and have virtually no cotrolled strecth which imposes the force of the impact directly on your body. If exposed to sunlight for two years, it is a risk. The two year rules in racing exists because not everyone has enclosed trailers or garages. Some people have there cars exposed to sunlight virtually everyday of the two years, and the rule is for those guys. If your car is covered, parked in a trailer and a garage you can go much longer then two years safely. All rules exist for the lowest or worst situation. If you compare oem application to racing, or rails, or what ever, you are sorely mistaken. I mean very sore if your lucky. What did I do today? Install a roll cage in a race car.

well its a bike.........I was looking for a pic of the quads, and can t find one, but my banshee is the same color.

I have a head that is ready to go if its a valve. If its a head gasket , its easy.....even if its a pistons, just get a set of stock pistons and the matching block and its an easy swap. ps. I m lookimng for a busa case.....I need to start building my turbo moter. I have a 1397 nitrous busa.

oh I do.....I just need to teach my 3 year old to ide it. Kinda of loaded question to me. How fast a quad is , is directly related to rider weight. An 8 year old on a stock banshee can out pull me, but Ill be ahead for awhile. Ofcourse he would have to put 6-7 of his buddies on the back to make it a fair race. Rider weight could change the power to weight ratio so much its rediculous. So real light kids, maybe 12 % of the total....where a full grown man could be 60% of the quads weight.