xtremetoyzracing Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 ok bought a rhino wiht a blown motor and trying to get it going, i rebuilt the motor with a +4mm stroker rod and +1mm piston making it a 691cc 11:1 motor, i made my own cold air set up and have a full exhaust but here are my questions- 1- about where should i start as far as jetting, i went to a 170 and it runs ok till you stomp on it and then it sounds like it is hitting a rev limiter or lean? 2- got some hoses i dont know where they go- there is a vacum hose on the drivers side below carb? also since i am removing the air box , what do i do with the open nipple on the top pass side of carb? on the front side top of the carb there is a pass through tube looking thing that had a hose hooked to it , whats that for? please if you can help email me direct at xtremetoyzracing@yahoo.com thanks guys here is a pic of it after my home grown cage, skins and love..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunerocket Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Rhinotalk.com,rhinoforums.net lots of info there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBurro Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 (edited) Rhinotalk.com,rhinoforums.net lots of info there You should have dual carbs. Remember depending on the throttles position, either your pilot, needle or main jet control teh fuel you feed to the engine. I would recommend 175/180 mains (mikuni jets) with dynojet needles and springs, needles on 4th clip and 25 pilots. Fuel screw is going to depend on high of an elevation your at. Remember when buying jets, mikuni sells their jet sizes by how much fuel flows through the jet. Dynojet sizes are by how big the hole is in the jet so dont ever thing a dynojet 150 is the same as a mikuni. You can order individual jets from jetsrus.com. If you have hoses comeing from the carb, one can be a breather hose which connects to the box thogh if your running no lid, you will have to buy a small breather filter for anything that hooked up tothe air box that does nto have a filter no more. Edited February 8, 2009 by SandBurro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predu Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 never seen one with a dual carb but i got a 686 high comp i would start with a 180 the noise you are hearing when you stomp it might be pinging. i have to run a min of 91 octane with some octane booster in it or a mix of race fuel. the hoses on the top of the carb are for throttle control they need to be hooked to the intake in front of the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Mike Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 You should have dual carbs. Remember depending on the throttles position, either your pilot, needle or main jet control teh fuel you feed to the engine. I would recommend 175/180 mains (mikuni jets) with dynojet needles and springs, needles on 4th clip and 25 pilots. Fuel screw is going to depend on high of an elevation your at. Remember when buying jets, mikuni sells their jet sizes by how much fuel flows through the jet. Dynojet sizes are by how big the hole is in the jet so dont ever thing a dynojet 150 is the same as a mikuni. You can order individual jets from jetsrus.com. If you have hoses comeing from the carb, one can be a breather hose which connects to the box thogh if your running no lid, you will have to buy a small breather filter for anything that hooked up tothe air box that does nto have a filter no more. . I am not sure what you are talking about. Maybe you are confusing a raptor intake with the rhino. Totaly different. I have never ever heard of dual carbs on a Rhino. Anyway predu summed it up pretty well with the jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie01 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 . I am not sure what you are talking about. Maybe you are confusing a raptor intake with the rhino. Totaly different. I have never ever heard of dual carbs on a Rhino. Anyway predu summed it up pretty well with the jetting. take it to Pure Evil Racing off of Craig and ? over by abotts shop they have a dyno and know what they are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptNkllm Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 take it to Pure Evil Racing off of Craig and ? over by abotts shop they have a dyno and know what they are doing. I agree there and Tom isnt to expensive either Capt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Rhino Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I agree there and Tom isnt to expensive either Capt good to know! they do quads as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBurro Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Sorry, Just thought Yamaha would keep the same setup from teh 660 quad for the 660 rhino. Dont mean to confuse any one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Mike Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Sorry, Just thought Yamaha would keep the same setup from teh 660 quad for the 660 rhino. Dont mean to confuse any one. It's all good. You can't count any any company to keep things the same. Especaily on different models that have different uses. Would have been nice if they could have put the Raptor power in the rhino. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBlasted Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 never seen one with a dual carb but i got a 686 high comp i would start with a 180 the noise you are hearing when you stomp it might be pinging. i have to run a min of 91 octane with some octane booster in it or a mix of race fuel. the hoses on the top of the carb are for throttle control they need to be hooked to the intake in front of the carb. If your running a high compression piston, you should be running a min of 100 octane. I run a mix of rebel 100 from the pump and 110 race fuel. We built the "Rescue Rhino" for Don (Camp hosts) and we was running the 91 with octane booster and melted the piston where it seized the rings. Since we fixed it and he is running the better fuel, his has been running for 2 years now and Don runs it pretty hard all season long. I run a dual carb setup on my Rhino. While it works well, I don't think it works much better if any over the Mukini 45. I have really not ben able to justify the duals cost to our customers so I don't push it. For anyone thinking of spending that kinda money, I'd put it into head work and a HSR 45. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXDOUT Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) My good friend Sid works on all type's of Rhino's or SUV's. He is in Henderson off Sunset and Boulder. He can fix anything. Let me know. He has done all the work on my buddies Rhino's with 686 big bore kits to working on my R1 Rhino. He is badass at this stuff without charging badass prices. Edited February 20, 2009 by MAXDOUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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