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Oil and tranny change on a 06 Dmax


mineurbiz
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Hey mark give me or bert a call with that duramax maint...we could hook that sh*t up...

And if you have any other problems like brakes, performance problems, check engine light ect... let me know..I work cheap and need some extra $$$$$$$

I need my trans and diffs done.

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Hey mark give me or bert a call with that duramax maint...we could hook that sh*t up...

And if you have any other problems like brakes, performance problems, check engine light ect... let me know..I work cheap and need some extra $$$$$$$

Thanks Jim, I am trying to find a way to get it done before Christmas eve, let me know if this is possible and cost.

On a side note, I think I have a black set of net for those Nerfs you guys bought from me (you can have).

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I need my trans and diffs done.

pm sent

Thanks Jim, I am trying to find a way to get it done before Christmas eve, let me know if this is possible and cost.

pm sent

On a side note, I think I have a black set of net for those Nerfs you guys bought from me (you can have).

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done by yourself, an oil change will cost you less than 60 dollars, and thats including changing the fuel filter too.

2 gal of transynd will cost you less than 100 dollars, and more than likely, you dont need to change the inside filter, just the spin on on the bottom of your alli

here is a great DIY thread

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198162

Edited by Richard Cheese
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done by yourself, an oil change will cost you less than 60 dollars, and thats including changing the fuel filter too.

2 gal of transynd will cost you less than 100 dollars, and more than likely, you dont need to change the inside filter, just the spin on on the bottom of your alli

here is a great DIY thread

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198162

After talking to both Mark and Mike they are both overdue for maintenance.

The trans spin on filter is recommended every 5-8 thousand miles and the internal filter every 50-60k.

Edited by sanddunesaddict
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done by yourself, an oil change will cost you less than 60 dollars, and thats including changing the fuel filter too.

2 gal of transynd will cost you less than 100 dollars, and more than likely, you dont need to change the inside filter, just the spin on on the bottom of your alli

here is a great DIY thread

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198162

Yeah they told me that due to enviromental regulation, they had to switch oils, which increased the charge from $57 to $100. The guy then told me that the internal filter is $100, then the fuilds and external filter brought it to $300 just for the tranny.

That link is not working for me Cheese, is it just me?

Edited by mineurbiz
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Didnt work for me either.

The new oil thing is true.We dont stock both either.

You have to run a new low emission oil in the truck with DPF's and its good for older trucks so we only have the one.

It is still a Chevron Delo product.

Edited by sanddunesaddict
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OK, we're going to start with the materials I've used...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

For the front end Differential I needed 4 things.

15MM Wrench

13MM Wrench

Oil Catch Can/Pan

Oil & Oil Pump (3 quarts but it won't use all 3) (I used Amsoil Severe Gear 100% Synthetic 75W90 I got from Heath here on the board)

Ok, the GREATEST thing about having a truck I think is even for a big guy like me, i could get under it w/out a creeper and NO JACKS/STANDS!

First thing I did was take and clean the garage and then take the trash to the dump, I wanted to get the fluids nice and warm.

I then parked it in my level garage. Slid my catch pan underneath and went and got my wrenches.

Then i crawled under the truck and here's the pics:

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yes, those little 'hairs' are metal particles on the end of the drain plug.

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By 2 pumps, I mean i primed the hose w/ oil up to the end, then I pushed the pump handle down 2 times.

Like I said, I dont know if made a difference but I felt better after flushing that stuff out. It smelled burnt and ran VERY Slowly, and was almost sticky, not what you would think of lubrication wise.

To finish up the front, put the drain plug back in, tighten snug (don't kill it, there's no need) Make sure you kept the little plastic washer off of the two plugs.

Now fill with oil until oil starts to slowly drip/run out of the top, as soon as that happens pull the fill tube out and put the fill plug back in.

Tighten snugly and move on to something else.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

On to the differential...

I didnt have the right size for the speed sensor, or the drain plug (There's NO need to take out the fill plug if you're going the 5W30 3 quart through the speed sensor hole route).

Materials:

Adjustable wrench

5W30 Synthetic Oil (I used Amsoil 3000 5W30 100% Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil I got from Heath here on the board.)

First thing I did was unhook the speed sensor wire from the top of the sensor. I then took my adjustable wrench and unscrewed it from the tcase. Once you get it loose it'll unscrew by hand... BECAREFUL with the sensor, as it and it's threads are plastic. So it's also VERY important to NOT overtighten this sensor.

Here are the pics:

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Now last but not least... The Rear Differential.

Materials:

15MM wrench

3/8" Ratchet

4 Quarts of Oil and Pump (I used Amsoil 100% Synthetic Severe Gear 75w110 I got from Heath here on the board)

I wasnt able to get many good pictures, I'm sorry, this whole time it was just me doing this and I didnt want to ruin my camera

Here's some pics:

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Ok, after you have finished letting it drain and wiped off the end of the drain plug from all the crud. Put the drain plug back in and start pumping oil into the rear differential fill hole (on the pan itself).

Put 4 quarts in there and if it's not leaking out (Mine wasn't) put your finger in there, you should feel it almost at the top. So i stopped with 4 quarts and was good.

I put the fill plug back on the pan w/ the plastic gasket (and no, the rear diff plug didnt have a plastic gasket, it had a rubber 'hood' around it - so no worries you didn't lose anything).

OK guys, thanks for reading this. Please as always correct me if I'm wrong about something!

I wanted to apologize for the lack of pics near the end, I had greasy oily hands and a $250 dollar camera, I was scared to death doing this. The camera is fine (I love Canon's!). I was all alone or i would have had my wife help and it might have been easier to follow.

Before everyone starts asking why oil in the tcase, Mike L. was made aware of of a problem they were having w/ the dexron they added in at factory fill. They recommended 5W30 motor oil, 3 quarts total added from the speed sensor hole in the case itself.

The truck in the thread is mine....

2007 GMC Sierra Dually, Crew Cab, Duramax & Allison Tranny.

This truck is worked, it's my 'tuner toy' (via EFILive) and also a horse trailer hauler and daily driver. I take care of my vehicles but I do tend to drive somewhat aggressive.

The vehicle has 29,000 miles on it, I would have done it at a even 30,000 but I knew right now I had the time

I hope this helps someone, and feel free to leave me a comment or correct me if I've stated something wrong!

- JasonDT2001

sorry bout the no pic transfer.... if you guys signed up as members, it would work dieselplace.com

Edited by Richard Cheese
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Yeah they told me that due to enviromental regulation, they had to switch oils, which increased the charge from $57 to $100. The guy then told me that the internal filter is $100, then the fuilds and external filter brought it to $300 just for the tranny.

That link is not working for me Cheese, is it just me?

thats bullshit...go to wally world and pick up a 2.5 gallon jug of rotella and a filter...take it to an oil change place..

become a member at dieselplace.com. its free, and there is a TON of information and DIY...thats why the link didnt work

shell rotella is rated for DPF, and it doesnt cost an arm and a leg...must be that "special" dealership oil they get :laughing:

im not bagging on Hendo Chevy..i have heard great things about them...just the gm dealerships around Bakersfield SUCK BIG HAIRY BALLS!!!!

Didnt work for me either.

The new oil thing is true.We dont stock both either.

You have to run a new low emission oil in the truck with DPF's and its good for older trucks so we only have the one.

It is still a Chevron Delo product.

over at the dieselplace...the threads i saw about it says it has to be CJ-4 compliant...which rotella already is

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You have to remember Cheese some people do not want to spend the time getting the parts,doing it themselves and making a mess in their driveway and then having to clean up and go get rid of the oil....How much is your time and hassle worth.

Edited by sanddunesaddict
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WTF? Why would he call john? I need the extra money....YOUR KILLING ME SMALLS! :xmas8:

:laughing: oh sh*t I forgot u need the money for the new tranny... :xmas8: wanna sell me those nerfs off the quad? :xmas_grin:

hell I need the money too :xmas8: Mike's truck is tall enough u don't even need a lift...I'll do it too!! :xmas8:

Edited by Moparskin18
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Thanks guys.........i forgot just how lucky I am. I'm retired military and we have a auto hobby shop on almost every base. I just pull up on the rack, drain, change filter, refill, and they get the oil. Parts plus about $8-10 rack time and I'm out.

I even installed my wireless air bag system at teh hobby shop. That air bag system works like a naked lady on a horney inmate!!! :laughing:

BBTank

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