racegirl04 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 My son has a early 2002 Gmc w/duramax. He has injector problems. He knows it's #s 3 and 7. He wants to know which side is that, driver or passenger? Also, when he gets the new injectors, are there any other parts ( like gaskets or other little pieces) he'll need to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Driver side bank: cylinders are 2,4,6 & 8 Passenger side bank: cylinders are 1,3,5, & 7 (It's opposite of a traditional GM gasoline motor.) Here's a little advise: Never change only SOME injectors on that year Duramax. Replace them all...as a set only (all 8). There are a couple reasons why. Sometimes you may have high balance rates on one cylinder as a result of another injector issue. Another reason is if one or some injectors are bad, the rest are very soon to follow. As for the required parts, here is a list including the part #'s. 8 injectors, 97729095 2 rocker cover gaskets, 97188896 8 return line seals, 97228933 2 return pipe seals, 97600925 2 fuel feed hose seals, 97251047 1 water outlet seal, 94011604 sealant for upper rocker covers, 12378521 fuel filer, 12633243 gallon of Dexcool coolant I hope he knows what he's doing. It's no simple task like screwing in spark plugs. There are a couple critical things along the way that shouldn't be overlooked. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racegirl04 Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 Thanks Pete!!! I really appreciate you giving me all that info. You Henderson Chevy guys rock!!! (Thanks for your help too Bert!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 You're very welcome, Lisa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Driver side bank: cylinders are 2,4,6 & 8 Passenger side bank: cylinders are 1,3,5, & 7 (It's opposite of a traditional GM gasoline motor.) Here's a little advise: Never change only SOME injectors on that year Duramax. Replace them all...as a set only (all 8). There are a couple reasons why. Sometimes you may have high balance rates on one cylinder as a result of another injector issue. Another reason is if one or some injectors are bad, the rest are very soon to follow. As for the required parts, here is a list including the part #'s. 8 injectors, 97729095 2 rocker cover gaskets, 97188896 8 return line seals, 97228933 2 return pipe seals, 97600925 2 fuel feed hose seals, 97251047 1 water outlet seal, 94011604 sealant for upper rocker covers, 12378521 fuel filer, 12633243 gallon of Dexcool coolant I hope he knows what he's doing. It's no simple task like screwing in spark plugs. There are a couple critical things along the way that shouldn't be overlooked. Good luck! What's a ball park figure on the cost of parts vs. the cost to have the dealership do the install? I don't have any issues with mine, but I'm curious what I'll be facing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 What's a ball park figure on the cost of parts vs. the cost to have the dealership do the install? I don't have any issues with mine, but I'm curious what I'll be facing Do you have a chair? I think the parts are roughly ~$2500-3000. (The injectors are like $300 each.) Add about another $1200-1500 for labor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltr450rider Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Do you have a chair? I think the parts are roughly ~$2500-3000. (The injectors are like $300 each.) Add about another $1200-1500 for labor. :pile: :shit_fan: :porn: Thats everysingle emoticon I could find to describe how that would make me feel if I had that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Holy cow, that's a chunk. You mentioned a levevl of difficulty. I'm the wrencher on our fleet, but have never done a set of injectors yet. Are any special tools required for a project like this? Also, would the installation of a better fuel filter help prolong the life of the injectors? I've seen guys with cat 1R-0749 filters installed. Those are a much larger filter, and what our big rigs run; they filter down to 2 microns. Is that any better than stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 :pile: :shit_fan: :porn: :pile: Thats everysingle emoticon I could find to describe how that would make me feel if I had that problem. Holy cow, that's a chunk. You mentioned a levevl of difficulty. I'm the wrencher on our fleet, but have never done a set of injectors yet. Are any special tools required for a project like this? Also, would the installation of a better fuel filter help prolong the life of the injectors? I've seen guys with cat 1R-0749 filters installed. Those are a much larger filter, and what our big rigs run; they filter down to 2 microns. Is that any better than stock? They aren't that difficult...mostly just time consuming. But like I said earlier there are a few things/ tips along the way that are pretty important. There's no special tools other than a short shank 5mm allen socket w/ swivel for accessing the lower rocker cover bolts near the firewall. As for the filter, I really doubt that would help much. The early (LB7) Dmax injectors are just a chitty design in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cheese Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 ) Dmax injectors are just a chitty design in my opinion. exactly 96 volts to fire the injectors, vs 24 in the lly and lbz WTF were those engineers smokin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Right on. I have the '09...An LMM If I remember. It's good so far, not mentioning the fuel economy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Right on. I have the '09...An LMM If I remember. It's good so far, not mentioning the fuel economy Oh chit, don't sweat it. Those don't have any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodguys75 Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 Driver side bank: cylinders are 2,4,6 & 8 Passenger side bank: cylinders are 1,3,5, & 7 (It's opposite of a traditional GM gasoline motor.) Here's a little advise: Never change only SOME injectors on that year Duramax. Replace them all...as a set only (all 8). There are a couple reasons why. Sometimes you may have high balance rates on one cylinder as a result of another injector issue. Another reason is if one or some injectors are bad, the rest are very soon to follow. As for the required parts, here is a list including the part #'s. 8 injectors, 97729095 2 rocker cover gaskets, 97188896 8 return line seals, 97228933 2 return pipe seals, 97600925 2 fuel feed hose seals, 97251047 1 water outlet seal, 94011604 sealant for upper rocker covers, 12378521 fuel filer, 12633243 gallon of Dexcool coolant I hope he knows what he's doing. It's no simple task like screwing in spark plugs. There are a couple critical things along the way that shouldn't be overlooked. Good luck! pete is great help to chevy owners, got me going in the right direction, i still owe him like a truck load of beer.........lol cant wait till i break down again....j/k thanks again pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 Oh chit, don't sweat it. Those don't have any issues. That's good to hear! Also wondering about exh. mods. I already pulled off the dpf, and watched the mpg jump up some. Is it worth the money to run 4" to the turbo and remove the cat; any fuel mpg being robbed there? I've been pondering that for a while, but can't bring myself to spend the $ for new pipes, on just hopes of a mpg increase. My exh. temps now sit at 6-700 during normal driving, and easily jump up to 11-1200 when a ricer pulls along side of me That seems like exh. restriction. My temps are way higher than my rig running the hills wide open. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnut Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 What are these injector issues you guys speak of??? :stir: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 What are these injector issues you guys speak of??? :stir: :no_no: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 That's good to hear! Also wondering about exh. mods. I already pulled off the dpf, and watched the mpg jump up some. Is it worth the money to run 4" to the turbo and remove the cat; any fuel mpg being robbed there? I've been pondering that for a while, but can't bring myself to spend the $ for new pipes, on just hopes of a mpg increase. My exh. temps now sit at 6-700 during normal driving, and easily jump up to 11-1200 when a ricer pulls along side of me That seems like exh. restriction. My temps are way higher than my rig running the hills wide open. Any suggestions? That 7.3 i was driving had no problem seeing 1400/1500 when a ricer came near lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 That 7.3 i was driving had no problem seeing 1400/1500 when a ricer came near lol I hear ya, I only run setting 3 on my edge, or else I'll be up in bearing frying territory as well. I was just wondering why it gets so dang hot? My big caterpillars runs 1600+ ft.lbs. full throttle, and sees maybe 900 degrees. I'm thinking the catalytic converter is blocking up some flow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 the only restriction on that 7.3 exhaust was the turbo.. was straight pipe from the turbo back. i got 700-800 cruisin around town but when i romped on it i could bury the needle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 What are these injector issues you guys speak of??? :stir: The early LB7 Duramax (01-04) injectors were a sh*t design. After that there were no more issues with them. We hardly ever get a late 04 or newer Dmax in for an injector concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp-guy Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 I hear ya, I only run setting 3 on my edge, or else I'll be up in bearing frying territory as well. I was just wondering why it gets so dang hot? My big caterpillars runs 1600+ ft.lbs. full throttle, and sees maybe 900 degrees. I'm thinking the catalytic converter is blocking up some flow I run my edge on #4 all the time (except for towing). I have an 04 LB7 and my temps never go above 1275. Cruising on the freeway they stay around 650-750. The uphill slowrolls are what makes my temps go high. If I can speed up or downshift it a gear the temps come right back down out of the hi 1200 deg range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BADYFZ Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 (edited) Check out Dieselplace.com for help if doing them yourself, very expensive job if it has to be repeated or is done incorrectly.. Edited June 29, 2010 by 1BADYFZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Sounding like these temps are common on pickups. It baffles me a bit though why they run that hot. One idea I had was rigs run vertical stacks; maybe the heat rising evacuates the heat away from the turbo quicker, than the pickups down and out flow? Thanks for the link, I'll check out some feedback for removing the cat for a free flowing exh. on there. Sorry, if I got a little , just always trying to learn up on the diesel stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 People worry too much about EGT's. Wanna know why? Because they put a gauge on it. Raptoroy put a gauge on his bone stock 07 LMN DMax. He wanted to see what his EGT's got up to when pulling his hauler with it bone stock. Guess, what...if you pretty much keep your foot in it you will see 1600+ with a bone stock Dmax. I keep mine under 1450-1500 (under extreme conditions in short spurts). These motors can take it. I wouldn't go much more than that though. You could crack or melt a piston if held there and pushed hard enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAND~~SNAKE Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 That's good to hear! Also wondering about exh. mods. I already pulled off the dpf, and watched the mpg jump up some. Is it worth the money to run 4" to the turbo and remove the cat; any fuel mpg being robbed there? I've been pondering that for a while, but can't bring myself to spend the $ for new pipes, on just hopes of a mpg increase. My exh. temps now sit at 6-700 during normal driving, and easily jump up to 11-1200 when a ricer pulls along side of me That seems like exh. restriction. My temps are way higher than my rig running the hills wide open. Any suggestions? Does your pcm know that the dpf has been removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.