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Yamaha Rhino height problem in Weekend Warrior


Desertdog
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:crackhead: not good for shock valving

:dance: :mic: I gotta hear why... Motorcycles have been STRAPPING down their suspensions for years loading them in the trucks and they dont affect the valving at all.. how in the hell is it going to make a diffrence to strap down a rhino overnight to get it in and out of a hauler???

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I thought that the Rhino fit right in on a WW with electric bunks, without having to do anything?

Mine does and I have 27" tires, and a roof on mine? but mine doesn't shut off when raising the beds, I could probably break the straps if I kept it pressed down (the raise switch) it might not be right, but it allows me to get mine in without doing anything, and once in, I put back in the pins and lower the beds onto the pins.. guess mine is broken in a good way :D

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I thought that the Rhino fit right in on a WW with electric bunks, without having to do anything?

NOPE I let the air out of my tires . i have a lower custom cage and it still hits the lower bed with the light bar...have a lower cage built with a fold down light bar and it will fit..or also could put weight on it loading it and it will sneek under it

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NOPE I let the air out of my tires . i have a lower custom cage and it still hits the lower bed with the light bar...have a lower cage built with a fold down light bar and it will fit..or also could put weight on it loading it and it will sneek under it

well did the test on our ww superlight with electric beds and 2 inch higher than stock cage we air down the tires and blamo it fit just fine :coocoo::laughing:

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  • 2 months later...

Alright Desertdog your in luck, I know that you have the single rear bunk in the back and I recently just found a simple solution to this. I posted my project on the glamisdunes.com boards. Here is the post:

I 'm tired of taking the light bar off on my rail on every trip to load it and now that I have a rhino it also rubs on the rear bunk. All I need is about three more inches of clearance and my problems with loading my rail and rhino are over. I know I've seen someone post this question before and there was some type of kit that I could buy from weekend warrior or something. The rear bunk bed is a single queen size manually raised bed. If anyone has any info I sure would appreciate it.

Well I decided to avoid paying the $1,200 that Wekkend Warrior wanted for raising the height on my rear queen bed on my 06 WW 3200FSC. I removed the bed and lowered the bed bracket about 4 1/2 inches and supported it with 2x4 studs. I re-mounted it back to the original brackets and I got the bed up 4 1/2 inches higher which gives plenty of room to drive the Rhino with a roof and my rail without having to take the light bar off. I did have to remove the window decorative border and slide down covers due to needed clearance for the new height. I will replace them with curtains that attach with velcro. The hardest part was taking the bed off and putting it back on, it was pretty heavy it took four guys. The bed was very sturdy and supported very well due to the fact that we used the original mounting areas. It was real nice doing it yourself in about two hours and saving $1,200. I took a couple of pics that show what we did to the bracket and also showing the extra clearance with the roof on the rhino. If anyone has any questions just let me know, I would be glad to be of assistance for a fellow duner.

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