RUn2it

I went there once, I used wd-40 and my friends used nothing. My Maico got a little rust on the pipe (heat burned off the wd) and my bars that I didn't spray had some surface rust. My friends toys had the same kind/amount of rust all over. If it's just a couple days and you wash it good after it shouldn't be a issue either way but if nothing is OK then a lubricant film couldn't hurt

If it's an A-arm type you can make the front track narrower for more clearance with a ratchet strap from left to right lower arms if that will help any ..... Nice car by the way ... I hate you. j/k

The hard part was done by desertskyz, I just added pinch of northern to Pete, and a dash to Ragdoll, a sprinkle of green rail for color and thought the 8/22 thing would add a little tart with time ...... :?:

Now they can really "Lounge Against the Machine"! and what's happening 8/22? :clown:

Should have a long travel car front end where the piano is, Lounge against THE MACHINE.

times 2 .....(where's Pete?) :clown:

Mild steel is all you need, there's no lateral stress on them, mostly compression and at times tension, that's why I mentioned square, easy to drill and bolts with nut/jamnut so you're not compressing the tubing even if it was possible to flex the existing mounts. Another thing to make it more stable when sliding is either rear wheel spacers (less $) or wider axle (more $). I wouldn't consider front spacers, increases scrub radius and won't be as easy to steer, but I would add some camber especially to the right front if you don't have to hack on the front.

Actually I made the legs and put the long line on it to move it to the back if it's freezing, they are made to bolt onto a cabinet or wall and if you choose to hinge it you can rotate it left or right to point down the length of your home/hauler .... it's radient heat (directional) so it heats you or objects 1st then the objects heat the air by convection. The highest temperature inside is only 700 deg at max, no flame. I put it in the very front below the TV pointing down the middle. The grill is pretty warm but won't cook you. Another little thing is in the motorhome you hear whats happening unlike the haulers but the results are the same, the cabinet doors, whether spring loaded or latched vibrate and rub while traveling, even the toilet lid on the seat starts wearing dents etc. I put those little self adhesive felt pads on everything. As I did this I noticed the cabinet doors were all cracking on the back at the ends of the verticle sides where the hinges are, because of the way they dovetailed/glue & stapled the framework and /or because it was solid oak and splitting the grain. The doors are like a picture frame with a slot around the inner edge and the centers just sit in the frame, they aren't glued .... there's 2 little soft pieces of rubbery stuff in the slot of each of the 4 sides to keep the center part centered so there's constant outward pressure, not now after the wood glue aroung the centers and a composite in the cracks.

Using the OEM heater in a 33ft motorhome on cold Dumont trips used lots of propane not to mention the blower draws 8.2 amps and would drain the original 2-12V "RV" batteries enough to have to use the jump switch (engine + coach batteries) to start the generator. The OEM forced air heater (convection/heats air) when it cycles on consumes 31000btu (.34 gal or 1.4lbs) of propane per hour at 76% effiency This catalytic heater (radient/heats objects) on high consumes 6000btu (.07 gal or .28lbs) at over 99% efficiency :?: Translated: This catalytic heater is a propane miser that uses no electric power (piezo ignition)

would the couple weeks later be a post Halloween or pre Thanksgiving? Damn, dune season better get here quick, we're all turning into raving lunatics :clown:

OOps, forgot one. This probably is only relevant for motorhomes but back before everyone had cell phones and people used the freeway call boxes I noticed a lot of burnt spots on the shoulder by the box, if a motorhome has 1 of the rear tire go flat, not a blowout, sometimes the occupants don't realize it till after the tire has been spinning so much that when they stop at the call box to call Good Sam the tire ignites, catches fire, so they grab the little powder extinguisher, spray the tire till it flames out, but as soon as they stop it reignite, spray again till extinguisher is empty and FOOF, re-ignites, powder restricted oxygen when sraying but didn't cool it, so in just a few minutes the motorhome is "fully involved", less than an hour and just smoldering wheels, frame and engine. Styrofoam insulation, toxic, nearly everything is hydrocarbon derived. I saw a motohome on fire just coming to a stop on the 15 between Primm and Baker I think, everyone bails out and are just looking at the motorhome then 1 guy hauls a$$ into the motorhome and comes out with a baby . So ..... be prepared, a BIG extinguisher for dad to start with while mom gets the little water hose and uses the quick disconnect to attach it to the kitchen sink, opens a window enough on the fire side and tosses it and then turns on the water. The powder is is done now dad can use the water to cool whatever was burning below flash point. Hopefully. I'm not going to watch my motorhome burn just standing there with something that looks like a fire extinguisher, that was only on board to comply with some DOT manufacturer requirement, with the same befuddled look on my face as when I found out about Santa.

Thought of a couple more things. When I got the 1st Dish, 10-12yrs ago, made a tripod, strung cable, anchored it down for the 3AM Dumont wind storms but was a pita to tune, the tube the Dish sits on has to be perfectly verticle to tune in multiple LNBF/satellites and a skewed oval dish, and not having the big money for what an dome cost back then I made a simple arm that swings out with the cable in it and when the m home is level the dish mount is level, 2-3 minutes and it's done. The pivot is 2 lengths of pipe, 1 inside the one welded to the frame, weld a nut for the Flintstone T handle lock bolt. kinda hard to see, arrows are pointing to the frame welded tube I gave up on the idea to use an electric step mechanism to flip the dish out of the last little access door, just wasn't into it I guess

So when your inverter is on all your circuits are hot....? You unplug all the phantom loads or have a switch or? What do you have for isolation, like when you start the generator, the unit auto switches to the charger? My 1750 Xantrex is probably 7-8 years old and has no charger and was $166. A friend has a big Xantrex inverter/charger, as big as a 5 gallon gas can, don't remember exactly the capacity, like 4000W and a 100Amp charger, cost him $1100 if I remember correctly. My generator's best friend

The micro/water heater panel Oh yeah, most electronic stuff have some current draw when turned off, I think my Dish receiver uses nearly the same power off or on.

8 bills? You mean $800, and it's a 1000 Watt inverter/charger? Did you have it installed or DIY? Rob, I just thought about the installation, you know how you're going to do it? Some install with an isolator so you don't accidently backfeed your inverter with shore power, The problem with this install is you're providing power for all circuits unless you're a real sparky but isolating a few circuits still powers up everything on those circuits. I've read where some bare essential people have made an extension cord with male plugs on both ends and backfeed thru 1 circuit to the box and power up everything, but the 1st circuit will likely be tripping a breaker and someone starts the gen or shore power and poof! I wanted to be able to power the TV, Dish receiver, micro and the elect mode waterheater (if I had surplus juice) so I came up with this idea, 3 double pole/double throw 30 amp switches, they're a switch that's usually used as a 3-way, up energizes 1 device, middle is off and down energizes a 2nd device. I wired it backwards, instead of power hooked to the middle connections and switching up or down to power different devices I hooked the micro, for example, to the middle connection and hooked inverter power to one end and generator/shore power to the other end so flip switch up = inverter, down = gen/shore power.

No rocks or bumps, some blue groove. The modified carts with the Jawa power have no suspension and run wheels and tires that are the small diameter cart size and do full lock slides fast at the same track

Draft big rigs. Yeah, sounds funny but my old Dodge class C had a Dodge440 guzzler and leaving Havasu with an enclosed trailer/seadoos/quad tractor late nite on a Sunday the big rigs would haul a$$ on the west I40 and I'd CB radio the caboose for a what's up and at 85+ would barely be on the gas and the old Dodge would be rocking side to side in the vacuum. Didn't do it for the financial aspect, would be dog tired and the rocking 10 ft behind a big rig that fast kept me awake no problem but would up the mileage from 7mpg for sure. Was in the middle of the train once but the rig behind me would be so close my trailer would start swapping. Less bugs but more grime on the front

Try a steel yards scrap bin, mild steel square tube that fits the top shock mount and smaller sq tube that fits inside the top tube, use flat washers outside the tube on the bottom shock mount, then small tubing for a bushing so you don't collapse the tube tightening the bolts, or new locknut just snug or a jam nut tight against the OEM snugged nut. drill 1 height adjust hole toward bottom of top bigger tube and a few in the bottom smaller tube with a bolt,nut,jam nut (or a small hitch pin and clip) and it's done. Round tubing is OK, just easier to drill a flat surface. Hmmmm, never did a virtual fab before, my hands are clean and unbloody...

get a tire buffer chingas and put it on an angle grinder and dress in a Michellin man suit and buff the excess rubber off your rear tires, you might be surprised what 3-4 lbs less off a rotating unsprung mass can do, faster revs = faster acceleration, feels like lots more HP plus will handle big whoops easier. Not many performance improvements you can do that doesn't compromise reliability, and lighter unsprung weight is easier on the drivetrain and suspension components. When you start rolling in dough again you'll never get "a round tuit". Just a thought

Yes it is, and those are Schweddie buns too I bet. Dang, just grossed myself out enough to get the head shakin shivers......eeewww

cooking is easy, what's the big deal? I push the buttons and soon .... "DING" it's Lean Cuisene to the rescue

80grit, The 6 volt Gcart battery uses heavy plates, made to supply moderate amount of power continuously and when you series 2 6Volts you have a 12Volt equivalent with lots of amp/hours and weighs 130lbs. Each batt is only 7"wide, 10" long and 10" tall and 65lbs. The original deep cycle battery. 12 Volt ,even when they say deep cycle, will seldom survive the number of times a Gcart batt can be discharged and charged, "deep cycle" doesn't mean use it till it's dead then recharge. That's what I did 30 years ago with my 1st deep cycle experience, lol, I thought deep, WTF?

The best battery considering cost per amp/hour per years of use is a traction battery, golf carts/ forklifts etc, the plates are thick and heavy, physically not very big but 65lbs each, gels are nice but finicky on charge rate window, the so called "RV/marine" battery is between the thin/many plate starting battery and the traction battery, not a serious dry camp selection, and the "starved cell" glass mat are ok but can be pricey. The 1st 4 glof cart batts lasted 8 years and were still good when I added the 2nd 4 but the books say change as a group and I had one explode from a spark that went under the lid, over the frame and BOOM, hydrogen bomb. The 1st 4 cost $45.00 each at Sams club, the recent Costco Gcart batts (Exide)were around $70-75 I think but they pay $9.00 each for the old ones. Yes, flooded cell batteries have maintenance, especially if you hit them with lots of amps, they gas, but they make caps now that traps the gas and it turns liquid and goes back in the batt. Keep the battery to inverter cables short, under 5 ft and big guage. I made mine with copper lugs from Walmart and welding cable from batt group to inverter and a long HD battery cable cut for the jumpers, the Walmart premade cables are junk, the lugs are basically a thin copper tube with cable all the way through then mashed with a press, drilled thru shell and wire. Propane torch and solder to make them last a long time. Keep the batt tops dry, when damp there's a constant discharge, put a volt meter on the damp plastic case and see 3-4 volts easily. Solar can be expensive but with fuel, maintenance and the all too often generator problems solar makes sense if you can afford the upfront cost and not going to retire from doing and going.

I thought gun control had to do with your proficiency in bullet placement on a target .... :clown:

oh yeah, before I forget, some inverters don't have a fan and some the fan runs all the time, but Little Red Dune Riding Hood likes the inverters that temp control the fan to run when getting hot just right.