RUn2it

Nice pic, did you use the custom white balance and bump the k up to 7-8 Kelvan? That makes some good saturated reds in a sunset.

I've done tons of aluminum polishing and if you don't want a ripple reflection get a roll of emery or even good backing wet/dry, wrap around and sand like old timer shoe shine guy. Depending on how rough/deep the imperfection you might need 2-3 progressively finer grades, it actually goes quicker this way and will buff out quick. If you're not sure how bad the finish is get some regular Mothers (white & red container) and try it. Harbor Freight use to carry all the Dico pads and stick type compounds and if you are really N 2 it use the SCR compound last (S-CR stainless/chrome) and aluminum will look like a mirror, at least till you drive it :porn: I've buffed out hard clear plastic with the PCP compound (PC-P polycarbonate/plastic) like headlights and mini mag flashlight lens'. Mothers works the best, forget "Neverdull" or whatever it's called. If you polish under flourescent light and it looks good, it will look chrome in the sun. Get a couple pads for your grinder or you'll get big azz thumbs, good for olympic hitch hiking and polishing.

:?: :worthless_without_pics: I have the old Adobe Elements 4 is all. All I did was like putting makeup on a model is all. Had to have something really good and unique to work with, what I did was the easy part, the hard part is finding and capturing the subject, you did that.

Forgot 1 thing, once the highlights are blown out, they're gone. You can recover a dark exposure but not clipped highlights so I only nudged the brightest from 255 to around 250 and basically just lightened the shadows and bumped the mid range contrast up a little to increase the overall detail and light unsharp mask sharpening. A better way would be duplicate the pic and work mids and shadows in one and the highlights in the other then merge/clone the sky/clouds (highlights) into the mid/shadow pic to preserve the contrast in the clouds that was lost in lightening the shadows but adds another step. Try different stuff, you can always hit the back button. The good orig and the bumped result

oops, disregard

Now this is a pic that the HDR type editing is great for. It's already a great pic which are the best ones to work on. Kinda like restoring a classic '55 chevy instead of a '55 Dodge DeSoto (if there is such a thing). It would give you more detail in the brightest area of the clouds and the dark area of the red rock mountains. It's really a good pic. Oooops, I think the urge to edit is overwhelming me.

I've never cleaned my sensor other than using a bulb blower doo-hickey. Could be dust on either end of your lens also or on your uv filter if you have one.. Solid colors are probably the only area that they show up so you could edit them out. There's online threads about sensor cleaning if U R n 2 it.

Was David Knight there? He's the Iron Man usual

I hear Van Halen I think .....

Don't talk like that, that would only give me 2.5 years

Same now as 2,000 years ago, caveat emptor, buyer beware. An old dump and transfer driver/broker told me to always expect/plan for the worse, it will be "that", or better. You're only paranoid till it happens. :?: At least you know your rail is good now

2 words ... Predator & FLIR

Did you happen to see any of these exiting the gap between the dunes? If it was whooped out like usual the big haulers were probably rock and rollin

It's about time ... and I bet if you think about it, you feel like there's more that you don't know than when you 1st started taking pics with your 50D

What did the pics look like, blurry from motion or maybe point of focus in front/behind subject? Check your settings for shutter half press etc, you don't want the focus or exposure to lock when following action. Mine is set for start metering & AF with half press. I use Tv (shutter speed priority) and the camera sets aperture for exposure, the viewfinder shows the f-stop & ISO for the speed you select. Try a shot then check the results by zooming in. the normal view can look alot better than when you see them on the computer. If this doesn't get you close post an example, somebody here will get you going.

Good pics. The road looks like someone had a big broom dragging behind their truck, doesn't look like a blade.

Popping after non use is usually a lean condition from restricted fuel flow. Just take the carb off, remove the bowl and check your main & pilot/low speed jets, most likely it's old dried up fuel residue, best way is remove the jets and use spray brakeclean and maybe a bristle plucked from a brush with needle nose, I've used fine thread also (jet floss). Backlight it, look through the jet at a light or any bright reflective surface. Look at www.hlsm.com for an online microfiche of your year & model. Clean those and try riding it. The only other thing that could need cleaning is the fuel screw/ seat, it's in the bottom between the slide and engine, might be hidden with a brass plug, drill it and it'll pop out. When you remove the fuel screw 1st screw it in/closed and count the turns so you know where it was. good luck, and if you park it for awhile put some fuel stabilizer in it, it's at most auto parts stores.

I can't comment personally on the Nikon D40. I don't know for sure if anyone that's posted uses a Nikon, know that there's at least 4 using Canon in the 40D/50D level. If the pros don't have a Canon they have a Nikon. I guess the reason I went with Canon is all the white lens' I saw at pro sports events are Canon and then started reading reviews. Monkey see .....

Ditto, if I want video I'll get a dang video camera I ask about the lens because of IS and focus is done in the lens and some of the lens' are just slow to focus. Need to know what he's got to know what he can do. My 24-70 2.8 L doesn't get any use for action, it doesn't seem as quick even close compared to the 70-200.

They're far easier than any other retailer that I've dealt with about returns. Their return policy has changed since a worker told me of a customer that returned a computer, got a refund, bought a new computer that was faster along with a printer and left with $ in his pocket. Vizio is owned & supplied by Sony I'm told. If I remember right the new 32 Vizio LCD is true HD now, 1080p. I've seen them at Walmart also, go compare the picture.

You have the 50D, right? So what lens you use for action? Side note, just heard a rumor that Canon is has the 60D ready to release soon, something around 8 fps and HD movie mode at 24 & 30 fps. Dang, my 40D will be 2 releases old

I 2nd Pete, nice pic. The mental test I give a pic is if it looks like you're looking out a window at the scene, it's a good 1.

Here's is a faked HDR from a pic from the "DDR invades Maui", the 1st is original & the 2nd is the fake, fake because there's no plugins, no CS3, no special HDR program so nothing great but closer to the way it would appear being there. The sand could be dark but I did it fairly quick so eff it.

Just go to Costco and get a Vizio, can't beat the price and the return policy is great. I have 1 (travels in motorhome also) as well as my brother and a friend and never any problems.

So I guess you already tried the TV power button, not just the remotes. My notebook did that and it was power transformer, a small module, that powered the on/off circuit. Seems alot of the individual circuits use a different voltage so they have their own transformers. Only suggestion left is check the manufacture's web site for a troubleshooter or maybe a FAQ. If you use Google check the "more" options and try searching "blogs", I've had luck when searching for 1st hand experience, and you don't get the commercial sites that have your search words tagged. Good luck again