RUn2it

Dang, can't win. When I 1st typed that I typed "he", but thought about it and didn't want anybody thinking I was some kind of perverted wierdo that went around sniffing male homo dog butts so I changed it to "she" so I would fit in with all ya'all regalar folks (as deliverance is playing in the background setting the mood)

I have lots of different profiles if you want to try them, like Chrome 2000 D50 & D65 icm, SMPTE-240M.icm but might be the same as aRGB, Universal RGB.icm, WideGamutRGB.icc, and not fooling, 1 called Bruce RGB. icm,lol. I probably have around 40 or so from outside sources.

You probably already know this but somebody else might not, when you put your pics on the web, edited or not, do you asign a profile to it? The web uses sRGB and if you upload a pic that's assigned a aRGB profile the pic won't look as vivid to 99% of the viewers as most don't set up color management and a PC (don't know macs) defaults to sRGB. aRGB (Adobe RGB) was and might still be the standard for graphic artist, etc. An analogy with the 2 profiles is like you wearing welding goggles and you're welding so everything is fine but the dude without goggles ....stand back, I'm stretching it a bit. (I bet there's at least 1 mind in the gutter, lol) Oh yeah, 80grit, forgot to ask what display adapter is in your computer?

CS3? You edit and the butler brings you drinks with little umbrellas? Isn't CS3 around what a restored 70 costs? I did about the same as you until I read how unsharp mask works so been trying different stuff. I found that when the detail is really fine & intricate I can get good results with .3 radius at 150-200%, otherwise I just take the usual approach. Learned that from Ken Rockwell. Oh yeah, forgot to ask you when sharpening you view the pic at 100%, right? Just checking. Remember when we were talking about how much detail can be hiding in what looks like nearly black? Got a good for instance fer ya. I only did what was neccessary to get the detail out of the shadows so very little editing (at least for me ) Untouched and Adrian is in there

Use the canned as the main dish and use the dry over the top like croutons. The dogs name was axle so she didn't have a spleen, she had a spline.

You sure? The news said wash your hands, keep them out of your eyes and mouth, don't remember them saying anything about licking a pigs snout.....

Dude, common sense will not be tolerated here! :clown: I made it up after reading the "singles wanted thread" with redswr. I don't know why I did it, It sounds so goofy the second time you read it I think .... Dare anyone to say "1 smart fellow, he felt smart; 2 smart fellows, they both felt smart; 3 smart fellows, they all felt smart" say it outloud, bet there's some fart smellows smelling farts

According to the "experts" the light index for viewing pics is D65, was D50 a few years back, just like "correct" gamma is 2.22 now instead of 1.8, all the tech terms and #'s are a bunch of bull krunkie as long as the pic colors look right, lol. I use 1 of 8-9 profiles I built with the Nvidia software, tried aRGB,sRGB, sRGB w/ blk point compensation but no bueno. I've written more than 300 color printer profiles with a profile program but still wasn't right, finally got a program that I use to correct the nuetral gray gradients of the Epson/Seiko profiles for whatever ink/paper I use. Took nearly a year to figure out that the color was good but the nuetral grays were off. I have a MS program that links to all your profiles and lets you look and compare 2 ICC profiles in 3D wireframe color rendering if anyone wants to install it. Here's some resized test JPEG pics for anyone that's so inclined to test your printer. I use the single gray gradient for profile build. The idea as an example is print the mini numbered Macbeth chart and hold it next to the monitor using the index card or scan the print and use a RGB or Lab color checker program to check. It's a pain in the aperture but the alternative is buying Epson stuff $$$. If you have any tricks up your sleeve please share Just saw you have a Mac, now you're getting arty on me, lol. Guess your gamma still 1.8? Macs are real GUI OS, not a goofy "Window" that really just links the old DOS commands to an icon.

I'm standing in the check out line with a big bag of dog food and the elderly lady behind me says "you have a dog?" I'm thinking ..."another genius" so I say "no, it's for me although since I had my spleen removed I'm not sure if it's OK with my Dr." So she says "was your spleen removed because of the dog food?" and I said "not exactly, I stepped off a curb to sniff an Irish Setters butt and a car hit both of us."

Pete (or anyone else) you use Elements unsharp mask right? You experiment with radius, amount etc? Or you have a bracketed preference radius like 1-2 pixels and 100% for amount?

Do you see much difference from the #2 pic? Lighter wheels, the door a little because of the contrast of the pic overall. Sidenote, Remember my Renezeder pics? Was easy getting those to look "live", all white truck, fool with the white balance in editing till you see the lightest brightest still has detail (255,255,255 RGB) and you're set. Oh yeah, and Jerrys helmet (don't know why but always do)

I hear wot u sayen just redid the pic. The tires in #3 are EXACTLY the same as #2 cause I cloned #2tires onto 3, as you said, when you lighten the pic the dark saturated elements turn gray and grainy, and I like tires dark, as they should be. Pete, lol, next LOORS race you go to look at the tires after the races are done, they are bluish, no bs, the BF Goodrich are, thats what Whelchel and Renezeder ran last year and Whelchel runs them on Porters U2 and the CHM TrophyTruck. And I know you've delt with the camera not giving you what you see, the ole white balance dilema with low, artificial light. He he, I'm on the right thread anyways, lol

OK, this any better? Speak up, it's called constructive criticism (I hope)

DUH! lol, I clicked and put them side by side, I goofed, I usually make a copy, make it light then clone the light wheels, helmet etc onto the orig pic, this time I cloned the dark tires onto the light pic....... Pretty bad when you don't understand yourself.....

Good answers guys, but the tires in the last pic aren't gray, same as #2, and I over did the shadow lightning to get the other end of the spectrum compared to the out of camera #1. So clicking the pics and sidexside, what about Jerry's door? What do you see, what difference? What about Jerry's helmet and that area, too light also? I have 11 different color profiles for my display adapter, most displays have too much blue (above 6500). 8 months experimenting and tweaking ICC profiles for printing, even bought color profile writing software, would only affect a wide range of hue/saturations (junk imo) finally found a program that lets you change everything but complicated. I could have used Epson ink and paper but would have spent more than $15,000 for all the printing I've done. Printers are like razors, cheap but then you are stuck buying proprietary blades. ANYWAY .... You guys do any photo printing yourself?

I often let er rip and just walking around .....

Are you viewing a laptop/notebook computer? The reason I ask is if you duplicate a pic and stack them the 1 on top will look dark compared to the bottom pic on a notebook usually

OK, need to do something on this thread Pete, 80grit, 330(?) or anyone that's game Want some feedback as different monitors display colors, brightness etc different, besides keeping the thread alive, and have 3 versions of the same cropped and resized pic. The 1st is cropped/resized only, the 2nd one has been adjusted and sharpened, the last one is the 2nd pic tweaked more except the same amount of sharpening as the 2nd. The ? is, in your opinion, is the last 1 look better than the 2nd and tell me what and/or how I did it. Click em to get the resolution synched

Oh yeah, 1/2tons axles carry the weight AND move the truck where 3/4 tons axles just move the truck and are floaters, but if a 1/2 ton breaks an axle it's bye bye wheel.

Just watch your temp guage and get it up on the RPM so you don't get detonation. When the outside temp is 120+ and I'm pulling (33ft 5.9 diesel pusher/22ft enclosed with 2 Seadoos, quad and DRZ) the Needles I40 grade leaving the river I have a 2.5 gal water bottle with a windshield washer pump and drip tubing with 4 misters in the fan shroud using the aux heater fan switch in the dash when temp starts rising, the temp drops fast with the evaporation. Just a tip that works. Be cool dude

I was thinking about it earlier, RUn2it?

When you happen to travel across a dry lake and see a rock check it out, might be a metorite. I know, ha ha,and but wonder who who take a regular rock out in the middle of a dry lake?

That's called "phase 2". Big deal ... 1) refuse to volunteer the info and 2) since when did the medical profession start releasing personal medical info? OK, you fail the "test", how long is the hospital going to spend their own money on the infants? I think a more important question for the brain trusts is will a flashlight work when traveling the speed of light?

It's all a ploy by those in control of the media to get peoples minds off the economy, it's better to freak out on the flu than to freak out and perpetuate and worsen the economic recovery. How's that for a conspiracy theory? C'mon, schools closing because of a "probable case of H1N1"? Geez!

Just my opinion but the sensor itself is clueless, it's the ECU that translates the data and makes adjustments. The aftermarket MAF sensor might be more/less sensitive and fools the ECU a little but you (or someone with the software and knowhow) should be able to do more with flashing/reprograming the ECU. That's how it's done in racing usually, but haven't got a clue about a Ranger. good luck