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RUn2it

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Everything posted by RUn2it

  1. So what's wrong with a regular masterlink = to the quality of the chain? I always thought the "endless" chain was like a maintenence free battery, really is maintence prohibitive with the top glued on. Off topic but I discovered what "spot free rinse" means visiting my brother when he lived in Vegas, the spots are free, you don't have to pay for them.
  2. Way to go Us backyard mechanics can be slick at times, if only we could remember to not scratch our arse with greasy hands
  3. You probably could get someone to pay you $100 just to watch you try to "pull a hundred smackers out of your ayuss"! would that be a cumulative pull or 1 smacker at a time? (I hope this is half as funny tomorrow as it seemed 5 minutes ago) vice grip in between the pins, a blunt center punch then a hammer, don't force it, get a bigger hammer Seriously I fixed 2 chains on a forklift that way and last I knew was still holding. But not nearly as much fun as pullin those smackers! Dang .... stop that!
  4. I know what you mean, a long time ago I got tired of paying somebody more than I ever was paid for the opportunity to eventually fix it myself but to also fix what they would screw up when they can't fix the original problem. But they are always the "expert" which broken down is "ex"= a "use to be" or "has been" and "spert" is a drip under pressure. :?: Super Dave, just think of electricity as water in pipes, voltage=pressure and amperage=volume or current, and watts (everything has watts listed) is volts (pressure) X amps (volume/current). A 100watt/120volt light bulb uses how many amps?100 divided by 120 = .83 amps. Tomorrows lesson will be how to rub your head and pat your belly at the same time :clown:
  5. The pilot jet was clogged, that was the 1 suspect. It's not rocket science, it's the same for LT 500 or 70, but you had me going with the choke thing Glad you got it running good.
  6. Sorry, was distracted. put the 60 back in (maybe bigger) and if you're running a less restrictive air filter than prior raise the needle a notch (lower clip on needle). With all the additives in fuel now it's hard to get a good plug reading but what's the worse thing that can happen if you're running too rich? Foul the plug. What's the worse that can happen if you're too lean? Maybe piston siezure or burn o hole in the crown. I'll take the fouled plug.
  7. Thanks OGP, welcome to the club, there's 2 members now. OK, mineurbiz, 1 more time then I'm gone. On second thought no need to type the same stuff again, if you want to, post back with results. good luck
  8. I wondered what those were and what you were doing with them :stir:
  9. I have question for you biz, if you're into the throttle about 1/3 to 1/2 and shut the choke will it die? And did you check the fuel level in the bowl? It's hard trying to troubleshoot something that you can't see. Could be something in the internal passage for idle air or fuel. I just noticed in an earlier post you said you "replaced the jets", so they're not the ones that were in it when the problem started?
  10. It's a butterfly type choke? And you say it's open when up? open = up??????
  11. Thought of something else. take the carb off, remove float bowl screws, attach the fuel line to the carb with the bowl in place, no screws, turn on the fuel, wait long enough to fill, holding carb still and level, turn off fuel, and carefully lower the float bowl and see how much fuel is in it. Maybe float setting is too low and the choke pickup is either lower or ported to the fuel inlet circuit. Just a thought, it's not electrical or air problem so it's narrowed down to just a few possibilities.
  12. I'm guessing it has been sitting awhile. Sitting for awhile doesn't cause a need for a bigger jet but will clog with the residue left from evaporated gasoline. Use carb/brake clean, no metal wire etc. You can take a bristle from a broom, paint,solvent tank brush to help. Look through the jet toward a light (backlight it). If the choke is a butterfly plate type, those increase manifold vacuum and vacuum is is what "pulls" the fuel into the engine so if the pilot jet is clean you might have a vacuum leak. The leak would be anywhere between the carb slide and cylinder. If the choke is the plunger type like on most atvs it's a bypass circuit that adds fuel where the butterfly type increases vacuum to pull more fuel. Try with the choke off but block the carb intake partly, if it runs the pilot jet is supplying some fuel at least. This is for any typical carb, and should help you narrow it down. Post back the results Oh yeah, there's a low speed air screw probably on the left side near the intake end of the carb, but this meters air. The screw at/near the slide is the slide stop (idle speed) You may know all this but just in case you didn't is the reason for the detail. good luck and you have about a week before the Regatta
  13. This should be the last pics unless I forgot something :moon: From top of comp I noticed Randy,Stu,Lou,Pete,Mark and the rest of the extended camp heading out on a run By the time I stowed the camera and caught up they were stopping for the triple B, beverage, bullsh1t, butt break
  14. I was wondering about that myself :moon: You know on the sidecar races the guy on the sidecar is called the monkey, so maybe he could be our resident camp monkey
  15. She didn't appear to be that sauced :clown:
  16. It's like Pete said and the more you can do with the camera the less you have to do editing. I can shoot a couple hundred pics in the time I spend editing some pics. Basics, like the pic with the black truck, it's backlit and the subject is already black, it's always better to have the sun at your back which makes colors pop too, unless you're doing an artsy fartsy art composition, . It took quite a bit of tweaking to get the truck pic better.
  17. I have a feeling that I will wish that I had waited for the 70 Regatta, bound to be a few memorable moments then
  18. This is where it lost the arm, axle and wheel. And I think Donny has always wanted to sidecar race. And the ride to level ground
  19. Check this out. I was on top of comp on the left to get pics of duners going up and across comp like this pic then I see this fly up and over from the steep backside thinking it was a LT car, it took a couple seconds to resolve the conflict of my brain thinking LT car but my eyes seeing a truck but look closer (click it) that's a clean disguise, and it made that climb without paddles.
  20. Did the firewood go to the Meet & greet with you?
  21. Here's another 1 from Saturday. The obvious conclusion from observing this picture is there must be only 2 sizes of whip flags available.
  22. So you are saying your husband doesn't have any .....nevermind :hungry: :clown: If your wheels are aluminum use flanged nuts with flat washers, without the flat washers you can extrude (mash) the aluminum onto the wheel studs. Do not use flanged nuts that have the small raised bumps on the mating surface that touches the wheel without flat washers, the vibration and use will cause the bumps to wear and make indentations in the aluminum and in doing so relieves the pressure of the nut against the wheel and then the wheel hole gets elongated from the now loose nuts. Don't use the conical (tapered shape) nuts on aluminum wheels that dont have the insert for them. I've seen stock conical nuts put on a new set of Douglas wheels and when tightened just the point of the nut mashes the aluminum onto the stud so hard that you can ruin the wheel trying to remove it. And just because a shop installs them don't assume they aren't retarded, my friends shop mechanic had his MX bike blow up 3 times, the cylinder nuts would loosen so I looked at the cylinder and saw the nut mating area gouged and then found the nuts were the lock type (bumps) for wheels, and MUST use steel flat washers on aluminum wheels. The original nuts were grungy and the wheel nuts were new and shiny.
  23. OK, now I'm curious, why the "kinda wish i had coil over"? ride? adjustability? Or you already have everything else possible, lol?
  24. Nice looking car, are those Air Fox? There's Air Fox shocks for quads that are zero preload, wondered if those are that type of design. (Couldn't resist tweaking the pic)
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