RUn2it

A slightly different version of "monkey on your back" to Monkey has your back. :?:

I have an HID on the LT500. 1, HIDs (and bikes, quads with a battery) must have DC power. 2, all ATVs, bikes etc have a stator (ALL stators are AC) and a regulator to shed voltage above 14V so your elect components don't fry OR elect start and some kick starts have a regulator/RECTIFIER that turns AC current to DC (Alternating Current to Direct Current). If your bike, quad has a battery simply replace the light with an HID (some have a capacitor in place of a battery like the '05 kick start CRF 450 quad), The LT 500 was the stator/regulator type so I had to put a regulator/RECTIFIER and battery BEFORE the HID was installed. I helped a friend put an HID setup on his Banshee that used a capacitor in place of a battery, he said it worked OK but I'd rather have a battery even if it's just 1 of the little dry cell pack that are sold with some HID kits. There you go, and some HIDs are EXPENSIVE and there's HID conversions for existing lights for under $75 w/lifetime warrantee for 2 lights, so you could get a couple halogen lights that have a light pattern you like (I've seen pairs of Hella at Walmart was around $70 +/- I think) and a HID conversion from someplace like DDM (Google it). Just remember HIDs Must have DC power.

Just a couple for now. Lots of entertainment. Happened across a few of these And a few of these more to come

Sandfrk33, you said it quit on you, quit running/ignition or the light quit? Was it a new/aftermarket assembly or rewound lighting coils and your orig stator sent for a core? The lighting coils are an easy rewind, the trick to make them last is clear epoxy coat the coils so they don't vibrate and wear through the insulating coat and moisture proof. I made new coils for my LT 250 & 500, iron laminate core and windings and no problems for 10 years, the epoxy is the trick, regular not quick dry, too brittle and vibration cause little cracks thats not moisture proof. Your banshee stator has 6 ignition source coils (green arrows) and 6 lighting coils (red arrows) and the higher wattage rewinds just use bigger gauge and wound in alternating directions (white arrows) Add 1 of these (rectifier/regulator) and a small battery (some get by with a capacitor) and you can run an HID or 2, more light and uses less power.

Yeah, they adopted me the 2nd round of CORR in Pomona, have you ever seen Jerry drive? Nobody is on the gas more than Jerry. This is Fri nite before the rain and mud. Number 1 TT for 2009

We broke 28 miles out, well the truck broke driven by Jerry Whelchel,1st tranny ever, R&R a new tranny in the dirt then the oil pump locked up. Not a good way to start the season. Jerry won the 425 last year. Everyone was breaking and crashing in all the slop. Andy McMillen was next to us in his pit over 20 min with elect problems and still won with a margin of 45 minutes. Didn't get many pics with all the problems but this 1 looks cool, Ed Hebst dicing it with Letner in the unlimited car class (truggy). Saw TrickyLS2racers dad's rig/pit there.

I have a 5.9 pusher, been through the drill plenty. Access under the bed, on the left side of block look down and you'll see the lift pump bolted right above the pan. Look close and you'll see (feel) a big button, use a wooden hammer, push the button with the end of the handle (gives some leverage and you're not hanging upside down), keep pushing till you hear the pressure release in the fuel return off the injector pump. Sometimes that's enough to do it, if not look for your fuel filter/water separator, mines right above the lift pump, has 2 fuel fittings, 1 has a bleeder bolt in the top, the other has the fuel return from the injectors on it. Crack the bleeder open a little and push the lift pump prime button till you see fuel and no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and try to start again. If that doesn't do it the crack the injector return line open at the fuel filter/seperator and crank it over a few until no bubbles if you have an assistant or for 30 seconds if no help, tigthen the bolt and then try it. This is the sequence that works on my 5.9. good luck. Oh yeah, sometimes the fuel shot off solenoid either sticks or battery voltage is low, turn the key to RUN position and look for an electrical solenoid attached to your fuel injection pump and look/feel for the lever and with the key on it should be energized and have the shaft retracted, if it's not just lift up on it and it will retract if the solenoid isn't bad. OK, that should be it with any luck.

Hope not a therapist ..................the rapist

goofy computer

If the tracks went onto pavement it was either loaded it up or need follow the blacktop generally away from houses and towards open land to find the tracks again or look at the yards in the direction the tracks ended, very few yards landscaped there and lots of dirt and paddles leave easy to ID tracks. I'll snoop more if you want to PM definitive location of tracks etc.

Rode every street there, lot's of dirt, no quad tracks anywhere. 1 housing tract right before Village dr hits Air Base rd (whatever its called now) had a new Suzuki quad sitting in the driveway, no cars parked around, garage doors shut, curtains closed like no one home and your quad locked up gets stolen.

That pic is ..... not sure what 1 word would be right but couldn't resist tweaking it.

What part of town? I'm in Hesperia and if they ride it in the dirt it will be easy to track. My DRZ has a plate and I'm mobile. Had a dirt bike stolen in VV by the fairgrounds, tracked it down by Center st park, to hospital hill out towards the glass plant then west under the freeway thru flood channel by the mall out past the hi power lines by Palmdale rd. Got it back the next day. PS time is of the essence, I'll leave computer on

Pete, I made a helmet light for the MR 16 lite and didn't have room for that connector so I used 2 - 3/16 (.187) flag style hi-temp connectors from Radio Shack. The 3/16 width just fits the MR 16 pin using one side of the connector and the hi-temp is hard and springy unlike the usual soft copper and keeps a grip on the pin and takes the heat. Just solder, heat shrink as good as you can and slip 1 side on a pin. It's goofy but I have used it with the current 71W narrow spot bulb untouched for over 8 years on the quad, DRZ and even the Seadoos at night around the island at Havasu :dance: was going to be temporary till I found something decent but it worked no problem. If you find a source maybe you can find high heat straight pin connectors.

Rob, just saw that at B&H, does the 30% reduced magnification make much of a difference? $17.95 doesn't seem expensive for having "Canon" on it. edit again Oh yeah, gallery, I need to do that also.

The eyecup slides up to remove (look at the book to be sure but you have to spread each side at the bottom to slide it up, and there's stuff for downloading at Canon too) but doesn't slide out. I read somewhere that there's a extended eyecup or an extension for the OEM eyecup but I seem to forget about it as soon as I wipe the screen off Hey, thanks for reminding me, I'll check it out right now

Hey, good deal with the card, they get faster and more capacity all the time. If you are really into it put some of the sticky backed clear plastic on the top screen too, it's plastic and the sand will tear it up. They make an eyecup extension I want to get, you notice your nose getting friendly with the back screen?

Is it a 30D? Starting with the 40D they added seals to everything to keep out the elements. Was at the Parker 425 this weekend taking pics in pouring rain, no problems YET..... :dance:

Have the same Lowepro I think, holds the body with the 70-200 attached, flash in the top front, 1.4x tele-con in the bottom front compartment. Hang the 70-200 case on the side for the unused lens. Has the straps to make it a chest pack so you can have a backpack also, safari style. Has a onboard rain cover too. Is this the same as yours 80grit?

Pete, if you haven't got a screen protector yet go to a camera store and look at the "Giotto" SP 8300 Schott glass protector, glass anti- reflective multi coated. I don't know of anything better, or how this 1 could be improved. If you have any ? I m ight be able to help, shot at least 25,000 with the 40D. Costco has the SanDisk Ultra II CF 4GB cards at a good price, I have 1 but it's slower than the Lexar Professional 4GB card when you shoot hi-speed burst rate with 20-30 frames and pause, it will take a second or 2 to finish the write with the SanDisk. It might be a 80x speed, the Lexar I have is 133x speed. Just another 1 of the 1000 things that are hi-tech baggage. OOPS, I need to read the whole thread before I post.

So ......?

No offense but Steve's reads like a Canon press release and doesn't do any independant testing of their own. It's already known the the 50D performance in areas such as high ISO performance and dynamic range is worse than the 40D and a 50% increase in pixels results in only marginal increase in detail in the lower ISO settings. dp-review does in depth testing, for example, testing just for noise has 20 tests, 10 of 4 photos each comparing the 50D to comparable cameras from Nikon, Pentax, and Sony, 8 more comparing to 40D, etc. Then there's tests for color reproduction, artificial light white balance, long exposure noise reduction/night shots and lots more, 31 pages of info. If you're interested in a camera go to dp-review, read and know more about the camera than the pin heads on commision at the camera stores. :dumbass:

If you wear a helmet in a buggy get a HANs device, if you launch off a dune and lawn dart you very likely will suffer a basilar skull fracture, when you hit your body stops and head keeps going and the extra weight of the helmet is the kicker. At least wear a collar. edit ...> a good bicycle helmet would keep the knots off your head and be light so no forward whiplash, well, not any worse that what you'ld get anyways

a "D40" is a Nikon and a Canon 40D body is around $900 and a 50D is around $1175 from what I remember. Canon for cameras and Epson for printers, although the gap is closing with printers.